SS 24 denim decoding: back to the roots The 9 November 2022 - Spring-Summer 24 - Denim Première Vision

Cellulosic fibers such as lyocell continue their ascent, and are now considered denim staples. When blended with other fibers such as hemp or cotton, they can play with new fabric weights and generate suppler handles. This skillful mix, the know-how of each denim maker, marries lighter weights with traditional aspects. These new blends offer a softer feel that can easily be imagined in more loosely cut garments. A guarantee of maximum comfort!

In shirts, weights are growing lighter, approaching more summery weights, while still adhering to traditional manufacturing methods. The resulting products are quite fluid, almost transparent, thanks to new natural, innovative and sustainable fibers such as abaca and Pima cotton.

There’s a search for sophistication, with chambray-style plays on matt and shiny materials, along with fancy weaves and yarn interplays suggesting more hybrid uses, something between smart and casual looks. Such fabrics are incorporated in shirts with simplified designs. Washes also play up authenticity, with a time-worn spirit, the effects of wear and paint stains created by using spray pigments.

To underline this notion of comfort, jeans opt for fuller volumes.

Ultra-loose baggy shapes are popular. Clothes also take on more open structures, like short blazer-style 80’s denim jackets. In pants, think peg-leg pants with an elastic waistband and big patch pockets. For more summery versions, styles are cropped – with boxy shorts or Bermudas ensuring comfort and style.

A first focus on the Heritage spirit, updated with a cleanly rendered look. Panama-style weaves lend increased strength to fabrics. These products, with their straight and clean cuts, are made to last and be passed on from generation to generation.

Interpreted in both raw and overdyed versions, straight-cut jackets, chinos and cargo pants feature subtle washes at the seams.

Sometimes these products also vaunt a bit of a recycled touch. Patches inspired by men’s tailoring, such as shirting stripes, are precisely assembled to lend greater sophistication to products. Accessories play a key role, moving away from a raw spirit. Galon stripes evoke the impeccable look of selvedge jeans, along with clean leather jacrons and labels with Heritage lettering.

In line with more sustainable products, undyed jeans continue to grow more popular. Ecru shades express the vegetal quality of the fabric and are becoming summer wardrobe classics. Meantime the palette of naturally colored cottons is expanding to include a variety of shades from burnt oranges to browns.