SS 24 denim decoding: back to the roots

The Denim Première Vision show opens its doors this November 23 and 24 in Milan. Get a preview of coming denim trends, with a special decoding of one of next season’s powerful creative directions.

The season is inherently pragmatic, looking to the roots of denim to find all the elements required for its reinvention. 

Denim is more than ever a hybrid product that makes comfort a prerequisite while laying claim to a strong creative identity. Cuts, details and materials brilliantly work together to deliver designs that are both chic and functional. The constantly evolving SS24 season is turning to innovative know-hows to update and re-visit denim fundamentals.

Confort first 

Denim is increasingly turning into a must-have in a wardrobe focused on comfort. It’s easy to wear and care for – and adaptable to every kind of look and silhouette.

Relaxed suppleness

Cellulosic fibers such as lyocell continue their ascent, and are now considered denim staples. When blended with other fibers such as hemp or cotton, they can play with new fabric weights and generate suppler handles. This skillful mix, the know-how of each denim maker, marries lighter weights with traditional aspects. These new blends offer a softer feel that can easily be imagined in more loosely cut garments. A guarantee of maximum comfort!

Shirt variations

In shirts, weights are growing lighter, approaching more summery weights, while still adhering to traditional manufacturing methods. The resulting products are quite fluid, almost transparent, thanks to new natural, innovative and sustainable fibers such as abaca and Pima cotton.

There’s a search for sophistication, with chambray-style plays on matt and shiny materials, along with fancy weaves and yarn interplays suggesting more hybrid uses, something between smart and casual looks. Such fabrics are incorporated in shirts with simplified designs. Washes also play up authenticity, with a time-worn spirit, the effects of wear and paint stains created by using spray pigments.


Loose fitting

To underline this notion of comfort, jeans opt for fuller volumes.

Ultra-loose baggy shapes are popular. Clothes also take on more open structures, like short blazer-style 80’s denim jackets. In pants, think peg-leg pants with an elastic waistband and big patch pockets. For more summery versions, styles are cropped – with boxy shorts or Bermudas ensuring comfort and style.


Deeply rooted in the fundamentals of denim, a workwear spirit steps into the spotlight this season. A tribute to Heritage styles, revised and adjusted through the lens of improved performance. New washes, structures and details combine to provide sturdy and durable products.


A first focus on the Heritage spirit, updated with a cleanly rendered look. Panama-style weaves lend increased strength to fabrics. These products, with their straight and clean cuts, are made to last and be passed on from generation to generation.

Interpreted in both raw and overdyed versions, straight-cut jackets, chinos and cargo pants feature subtle washes at the seams.

Sometimes these products also vaunt a bit of a recycled touch. Patches inspired by men’s tailoring, such as shirting stripes, are precisely assembled to lend greater sophistication to products. Accessories play a key role, moving away from a raw spirit. Galon stripes evoke the impeccable look of selvedge jeans, along with clean leather jacrons and labels with Heritage lettering.



In line with more sustainable products, undyed jeans continue to grow more popular. Ecru shades express the vegetal quality of the fabric and are becoming summer wardrobe classics. Meantime the palette of naturally colored cottons is expanding to include a variety of shades from burnt oranges to browns.


The SS24 season also zeroes in on denim’s functional origins. Authentic-looking fabrics incorporate performance-enhanced fibers and finishings designed to stand up to time and abrasion. Fabrics are jam-packed with eco-responsible properties, with fibers made from recycled polyamide and polyester. Cuts recall a work-tech spirit, bringing to mind ’90s-style jackets with big protective hoods and plenty of double-stitched cutouts. To ramp-up the utility factor, products flaunt multi-functional zippers and large flap pockets.

Log on here to discover our other denim decodings, as well as our Trendtasting presented by our denim expert. 

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