SS 26 Decodings: Leather The - Spring-Summer 26 - Leather - Leather - Première Vision Paris
Spring-Summer 2026 is celebrating an exceptional mastery of craftsmanship, blending technical innovations with artisanal virtuosity. Meticulous textures, bold embellishments , and virtuous creativity are redefining leather and fur. Beyond mere decorative effects, the pursuit of excellence in finishes goes hand in hand with heightened attention to their chemical and environmental impact.
Goldsmithing in Leather and Fur
Mechanical finishes take on a more refined character: high-precision perforations, ornamental embossing, and trompe-l’œil effects are all pushing material boundaries. The play with grain and structure evokes textile weaves, constructing a new sensory language.
Delta Neo stands out with its remarkably fine perforations, while Trapper is elevating fur and sheepskins into high-fantasy variations, experimenting with colour, texture, and intricate Intarsia assembly techniques. Ictyos, a pioneer in upcycled marine leather, infuses unique preciousness with metallic, iridescent, or satin finishes.
Meanwhile, Daumet is redefining gilding, pushing at the limits of innovation with creations in which brilliance and durability are intertwined.
In footwear and leather goods, leather blends seamlessly with natural fibres and iconic summer structures, such as woven raffia and cotton braids, enhancing straps and belts in warm shades, from praline brown to milky pink and military khaki.
Ultra-Fine and Lightweight Leather for Apparel
Leathers for apparel are embracing an ultra-light touch. Openwork skins seem to draw inspiration from graphic lace, and micro-caviar grains give the skin a uniform texture while preserving a natural appearance.
Crumpled effects, reminiscent of paper and the crisp finesse of poplin or technical fabrics, create a sensation of lightness. Calendered leathers with crushed grains add texture to fluidity, paving the way for a new form of elegance in which volume and relief assume sleek shapes.
This lightness is further enhanced by finishes that evoke freshness, with leathers with washed or bleached finishes. Sanded or brushed suede and nubuck develop powdery textures with a peach-skin touch. Full-grain lamb leathers display a chalky, two-tone effect, while some are adorned with silver hues or frosty whites, finished with translucent sheen effects.
A Holistic Approach to Eco-Design
Leather eco-design is evolving, incorporating solutions that combine performance with reduced environmental impact. From tanning formulations to the reuse of offcuts, each stage is optimised to become part of a more responsible approach.
Plant-based agents and biopolymers derived from agricultural by-products now offer viable alternatives to conventional tanning and finishing methods.
New chrome- and glutaraldehyde-free formulations provide leather with properties akin to those achieved by chrome tanning, while optimising its end-of-life and paving the way for skin compostability.
Repurposing production offcuts is starting to truly drive innovation and creativity. Flexible, durable materials and supple materials are being made from recycled leather scraps. From crushed leather amalgams for rigid components to small, handcrafted pieces developed by artisans, and collaborations with upcycling specialists, initiatives are multiplying.
Studio Loann, Hors Studio, invited by Première Vision, and Audrey Bigouin (Audrey B. Studio), an exhibitor at Maisons d’Exception, are exploring their full potential. Here, offcuts and production waste become the raw material for meticulous craftsmanship, where traditional savoir-faire meets contemporary vision, to create highly desirable, one-of-a-kind pieces.
Read also: our article A Rich Field Shaping Innovation and Creation
Discover more SS26 season decodings here.
