Decodings SS25: Sport & Outdoor

Tailoring performance to the user’s actual needs, searching for the least harmful ingredients, pioneering ingenious blends… Thanks to recent advances in green chemistry aimed at reducing oil-dependence, eliminating lingering pollutants and improving biodegradability, technical fabrics offer -their own version of innovative understatement. It’s time to get past the clichés: who said cotton wasn’t right for sports? Or that you can’t move freely without elastane? 

From now on, you’ll have to carefully read the labels to understand where the differences lie, and handle the fabrics to appreciate the tactile qualities behind their low-key visual appeal. Elegant and inventive, this season reflects Saint-Exupéry’s famous maxim in The Little Prince: “What is essential is invisible to the eye.”

Performance, naturally

Making room for the inherent qualities of natural fibers in a sea of technical innovation.

Long-fiber cottons are either pure or blended with eco-designed synthetics and nanomembranes in glazed poplins and impeccable percalines for chic, high-tech windbreakers. Those outdoor classics, waxed cottons, come in modern blends with the same creases and scratches as old-fashioned oilskins that did the job without PFAS, now enhanced with even more virtuous oil-free coatings.

Thermoregulating, anti-odor, quick-dry and anti-UV, wool also comes in 100% versions, in fine combed merino, for light climatic protection. Fine jerseys in carefully proportioned blends of Tencel, polyamide and elastane, with minute ribbing or interlocks, are ideal for any kind of movement, whether stretching, cardio or relaxation.

New mobility

Airy, floaty, lightweight taffetas and synthetic pongees hoist the sails on a new mobility. They’re ideal for loose-fitting shirts and lightweight pants. Weights are plummeting. Practically intangible yet ultra-functional fabrics are stretch or bi-stretch, anti-bacterial, water-repellent, quick drying and easy-care. They can be as crispy and translucent as tracing paper, cool to the touch, or even dry, rustling and creponned. Meantime, down-proof calendared fabrics are all ready for must-have summer puffers, filled to your heart’s content with eco-responsible wadding made from pure wool or recycled PET.

Maximum minimalism

Forget unnecessary bells and whistles – today’s active sport fabrics cut to the chase. Their understated look underscores a laser- focus on function: chlorine-proof charmeuses for swimwear, impeccable ribbed knits, three-layer laminated softshell knits for all-comfort jackets, waterproof and breathable “two-and-a-half-layer” fabrics that conserve materials, PFC-free water-repellent textiles, sustainable elastanes, or even mechanical stretch, recycled or bio-sourced synthetics… it’s all about getting the best function/impact ratio.

Animal Fantasy

A pervasive calm marks decorative designs that are more tactile than visual, like embossed surfaces that evoke the hide of an elephant or the scales of a snake. And a world of stillness inspires iridescent luster, reptilian embossing, shagreen-like textures and shifting, blurred patches with an underwater pallor.

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