SS 24 denim decoding: a touch of nostalgia runs through collections

The Denim Première Vision show held in Milan this past November 23 and 24 provided an opportunity to check back in on the season’s main creative directions. 

After analyzing both heightened fantasy and sustainability in the collections, here we examine the return of a certain kind of nostalgia. 

A nostalgic manifested in clearly visible fibers proudly vaunting their imperfections. A nostalgia that also demonstrates a shift to unisex clothing, along with a certain idea of romanticism emphasizing supple fabrics and soft colors.

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Inspiring imperfection 

It’s a season where imperfection is celebrated as a creative direction in and of itself. Visuals are exaggerated in a search for singularity.

Celebrating imperfection

Fiber blends help accentuate yarn effects, creating a play on raw textures that lets the true nature of fibers come through. Cottons – in 100% versions or mixed with hemp and other bast fibers – fashion sturdy weaves from dark indigos. On the surface, ecru yarns protrude, creating a more or less diffuse speckled effect emphasizing the singularity of the fabric.

Vertical irregularity

This search for singularity also provides a chance to reinterpret authentic denims. Plain-woven bases look intense, very dark, ranging from pure indigos to deep blacks. The yarns produce cross or ring effects, akin to a vintage look. Mills draw on complex and innovative spinning methods, with recipes specific to each denim maker, to create highly accentuated slubbed effects, inspired by a 2000’s look.

Aesthetic blur  

Optical effects and softly washed-out effects create subtle contrasts.

Optical plays

Silhouettes have fun playing with multiple contrasts. A head-to-toe denim look is confidently embraced, with tops and bottoms worked in different weights. Shirts and tops find a diversity of uses. They go in for elegance with sophisticated, ultra-light weights verging on transparent.

These are teamed with skirts and pants with dense and robust handles.

Fits favor classic shapes and are reworked with complex visuals: plays on structures, striated or striped textures, washes that imitate the passing of a hand across the jeans.

Cloudy summer

This nostalgia can also be combined with a fresh, summery color palette. Gray tones for example are coordinated with other hues such as white or pale-toned indigo. These washed-out shades are a gentle reminder of the passage of time. Bleached and acid-wash versions are interpreted in more or less dark gray tones. Combined with glazed tints, these washouts trace out abstract shapes.


Romantic look

This season also marks the arrival of unisex products. Fabrics are becoming softer and more fluid thanks to the addition of lyocell to the usual blends. The result is a charming look with a certain romanticism. Textures are abstract, with motifs fluctuating between diffuse floral and vegetal elements.  To ensure optimal comfort, summery cuts gently flare out at the bottom, with a focus on loose-fitting Bermudas and shorts.

Crackle effects

And to continue in this nostalgic vein, water and its visual effects infuse the season’s creative directions. Various types of washes – including stone wash, marble wash and crease wash – produce more or less pronounced visuals, which are particularly noticeable on clean, intense indigo bases. Other vintage influences include 80’s silhouettes with full, cropped jackets as part of a total denim look. Some items create an illusion of wear, with patches that look salvaged from old jeans, in a heritage spirit.

Log- on here to discover our other denim decodings, along with the Trendtasting presented by our denim expert.

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