Tailoring is constantly reinventing itself. Rather than sticking to its timeless, low-key image, the tailored universe is now freely imagined, designed to appeal to a generation that refuses to compromise on style or comfort. Here, a look at two neo-tailoring directions: linen for a modern and versatile look, and sensual and feminine second-skin fabrics.
Linen, a noble ancestral fiber, is newly appealing. In an age of limited impacts and environmental labelling, linen boasts unrivalled eco-friendly qualities, including traceability, sustainability and a low use of resources. For the past several seasons, fashion’s most creative houses have come up with ingenious new ways to work linen into their collections, embracing its rumpled look and slubbed effects.
This season, linen turns up in all product families, lending its lightness and thermal-regulation to a range of garments, from shirts to outerwear.
Linen’s ubiquity facilitates head-to-toe silhouettes, where tailored items are deconstructed and layering reigns supreme. The look is oversized, androgynous and adaptable.
Wide, fluid pants lend a fullness to the gait. Shirts spill over. Far from sticking to their traditional role, shirts dominate the look with generous volumes, to-the-knee lengths and pop stripes. Topping off the silhouette is a sleeveless parka, confirming the arrival of linen in the sport & tech universe.
Linen makes an entrance into dress shirtings, where its slubbed irregularities work their appeal, bringing a fresh liveliness to a city universe known for its immaculate perfection.
There’s also a new look to the colors, which break free of the beige and blue confines of banker’s stripes. Pop and pastel hues give a lively zip to checks and stripes. Thanks to a summery use of yellows, pinks and blues, straight patterns look as if they’re in motion.
There are more and more wool and linen blends, a luxurious mix that compounds the natural thermal performance of both these fibers. Handles are round and light, for truly fine suitings that combine the perfection of a wool broadcloth with the freshness and irregular look of linen.
Thanks to new blends, linen is growing ever more comfortable. Truly ubiquitous, linen even slips into collections geared to technical uses. Here it’s blended with synthetics and covered with membranes with technical properties: water-repellent, waterproof, breathable, quick-drying… For versatile and sophisticated outerwear.
Next to the body
In contrast to the surreal visuals of some collections, this season we see a search for tangibility and tactility. Fabrics and leathers are worn next to the body, for a second-skin feel. An underwear spirit that breaks out of the bodysuit and camisole realm, ready to be worn openly.
The resulting silhouette is a balance between the seriousness of tailored wear and the sensuality of lingerie. A draped shirt flows over the torso, concealing the body while revealing it. The pants, cut very long and very tight, can be envisaged in a fluid silky, or even a very fine leather.
The search for elasticity leads to ultra-tight silhouettes. Jackets are worn like T-shirts and pants verge on leggings. Silkies are stretchy without losing any of their fluidity, for successful pleats, knots, and body shaping. And for an eco-friendly alternative to conventional elastane, this stretch can be obtained mechanically, in particular by using crepe yarns.
Knits also take a sensual turn. For draped tops, dresses and sweats to wear right next to the skin. Crafted with cellulose filaments, like lyocell or Naia, these knits combine comfort and seduction and glide over the body. Even fleeces are softened for a heightened fluidity in comfy, everyday pieces. Deconstructed tops and sweatshirts, which move away from a casual look.
Here, the search for tactility is at its peak, with an extreme softness that awakens the senses. Seasonal classics like terry and velours are accompanied by new peach skins – emerized jerseys and washed silks. For tops and dresses that feel as light as a caress.
Leather is everywhere on today’s runways. The craze for ready-to-wear leather feeds on new product developments vaunting an incomparable fineness and elasticity. These leathers are so fine, so soft, that they can be worn right against the skin.