Leathers take on new behaviors and effects for Spring-Summer 24, with transcendent new modes of expression. Skins are enriched with ultra-precise finishes through subtle, delicate treatments and nourishing, vibrant light that brings surfaces to life.
Here, a preview of some of the leather gems unearthed by the Première Vision team, to be found along with many others in the forums at the Première Vision Paris show.
Among the season’s highlights is a palette of deep, radiant blues that blazes across skins.
From vivacious, luminous hues to a saturated Klein blue, these give the materials extra intensity.
Pull-up- and tamponato-style patinas appear on thick, dense leathers intended for outdoor use. Natural grained leathers are drum-dyed without a pigmented finish to better reveal textures, while fine, supple leathers with an almost rubber-like matte finish are used for crossbody bags that accessorize a versatile, urban wardrobe. Monochromes are offset with shearling accents on the collars and cuffs of oversized hybrid parkas.
Indigo dyes bring out the powerful, magnetic character of Klein blue. A saturated hue that’s anchored in reality, absorbs light and reveals the skin’s materiality.
The Natural Attraction of Vegetable Tanning
Vegetable-tanned leather and basanes are characterized by their naturalness.
A soft, muted mood is underscored by half-tone hues, while generous, sunny shades and warm, earthy tones tend to darken and get more expressive over time. This season, fresh processes from tanners come with new performances. Metal-free tanning is followed by re-tanning with plant-based agents such as mimosa, chestnut and quebracho, which come in three tonal registers. These natural, vegetable-based colors become carnal on round, sensual bags. Metal-free tanning methods using biosourced polymers derived from hemp oil are used on nubuck and embossed leathers, while vegetable-tanned, drum-dyed skins undergo a second tanning before being naturally dyed using wine residue. This method produces gradient shades, from tannic pigments to muted hues that create natural surface irregularities.
With vegetable tanning, fine lambskin leathers present increased suppleness and lightness and can be used for clothing.
Here, digital influences take on a more romantic allure with immaterial finishes that radiate from the surfaces of skins. A delicate, futuristic mood is explored through a palette of artificial pastels that bridge dreams and reality. Micro-glitter surfaces and hologram-like reflections bring surfaces to life. Finely embossed skins are enriched with iridescent, evanescent surface effects applied as placement accents.
On mauve glazed leathers, such as “mauve steam,” delicate pearlescent finishes and light glazes evoke flowing, silky fabrics. Wet-look varnishes can also be applied as translucent, acidic overcoats to create subtly colored and blurred pastel contrasts.
For leather finishing, an expanded selection of high-precision perforations offers exceptional finishes. These more or less figurative perforations depict oversized animal prints in tone on tone, or evoke lace, pointelle knit and guipure through meticulous, geometric and linear openwork on leather. These fine, supple leathers are perfect for a revisited leisurewear wardrobe, such as tops and dresses with anatomical cuts that focus on sensuality.
To complete the picture, discover a preview selection of new products being presented in Paris at the show this February 7 to 9.