This season, fabrics highlights revolve around expressive naturals, adaptable materials, high precision, and a digital gleam.
Reconnecting textiles and the natural world, rediscovering acts of random, artisanal crafts and tiny imperfections that stir our hearts.
Bast variations: plant fibers and their irregular aspects enhance plains and yarn-dyeds. Highly refined ramies have a precious yet natural look. Slubbed materials step into the shirting universe, for a chic and casual mix. Linens are blended with wool for summery fresh suitings. Woven into silkies, linen makes a notable impression in versions with a couture accent.
Dehydrated handles: a vegetal feel is expressed in dry, even crispy handles, on refined cotton crepes, cool wools, and summer wrinklings with a papery handle.
Artisanal resonance: fancy wovens and knits are inspired by manual know-hows, braidings, canings, and macramés transported into contemporary versions, with quite visible basketweaves and enlarged structures.
Rediscovering freedom: freedom of movement, along with the freedom to dip into all wardrobes and try out new uses.
Malleable flexibility: whether sheathing or floaty, second skins, stretchy voiles and anatomical bi-stretch fabrics borrowed from lingerie follow the body in motion.
Supple density: dense suitings and silks are more supple, with a generous drape and full, lively handles. Woolens are both compact and malleable, and silks are round and fluid.
Hybrid weights: denser poplins, stable knits, and lighter gabardines adapt to different uses, for clothing that’s both structured and manageable – easy to manufacture and easy to maintain, in a mix of registers, from chic to casual, feminine or masculine.
Almost a luxury in itself: constructions so fine, in weights attaining transparencies so evanescent, that, while they may be spotted from afar, their sophistication is only perceptible up close.
Airy geometry: finely traced stripes that look drawn with a ruling-pen delicately crisscross knits and wovens with tranquilly repeating motifs. They are the discreet explorers of plains in ripstop threads or pulled threads, and the meticulous architects of delicately thread-like structures, from enlarged tulles to fine guipures.
Microscopic: Miniature piqués, tiny dobbies, micro grooves… Fanciful Lilliputian-scaled structures never fail to catch the eye – even of the least attentive. Inside we see the neatness of combed and twist yarns, the fineness of the counts, the meticulousness of the weaves, the perfection of the knits, an embodiment of quality, which impresses without overwhelming.
Precise transparencies: as if to better highlight their transparency, fine bourdon stitches, slim stripes and subtle threadings run through tulles, silky voiles and translucent coatings. Elsewhere, micro-perforations and neatly hemmed nets apply a mathematical rigor to organizing full and empty areas.
Faille and ottomans: refined reps, silky faille, cottony or technical ottomans and fancy micro-wovens lend character to plains, for firm and compact handles, finely ribbed in the direction of the weft.
DIGITAL GLEAM, a call “to the dream of a festive reality” unites light and color. Shines move away from a precious-metal look and take on vibrant, tangy aspects. Reflections are elusive, and sparkle slips into cottony tweeds. Silkies and knits are decked in ethereal iridescence. Technical taffetas feature lustrous calendarings.