Maison d’Exceptions: Step into the world of ultra creativity The - Première Vision Paris
After a three-year absence, Maison d’Exceptions is back from 7 to 9 February at the heart of Première Vision Paris.
Exclusively reserved for luxury brands and accessible by invitation only, this space dedicated to rare and cutting-edge know-how will bring together for its 10th edition 21 ateliers and artisans who will unveil their unique techniques, whether contemporary, ancestral or vernacular.
The space is designed to propose exclusive, creative and unique or custom-made products: crafts of excellence led by passionate artisans, delighted to share their know-how.
Contemporary techniques
Ultra-creative embellishments, decorative buttons, leather caning, striking knits, featherwork, new sericulture methods, mother-of-pearl inlay… a dozen ateliers featuring contemporary techniques will celebrate the meshing of modern-day knowledge with the world of arts and crafts.
Anne Gelbard
In 1997 Anne Gelbard, a graduate of the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, set up a most unusual workshop. A true research and development laboratory where everything is conducive to creativity.
The rarefied application techniques of gold, silver or copper leaf transform the base cloth. Anne Gelbard catches, absorbs every desire and transforms the materials under her hands. Mixing materials, technology and media, this innovative workshop brings a new way of seeing to the world of haute couture, luxury ready-to-wear collections and interior styling.
Artisanal methods of finishing
PARIS – France
Atelier Aymeric Le Deun
After his experience with many ready-to-wear and luxury houses, Aymeric Le Deun has chosen to specialize in traditional button and buckle production, forming his workshop in 2007. Master craftsman passionate about technique in all its forms, he works in classical ways such as fabric, leather and fur cladding, as well as with specialty techniques such as layering fine, transparent materials.
To make even more specific items or reproduce archival pieces, he modifies mechanical techniques and seeks out traditional methods in order to improve them.
Button maker
PARIS – France
Ateliers Courtin x BBK
Ateliers Courtin was founded in 2011 in Chennai on the south-eastern coast of India and has built its reputation on the perfect mastery of artisanal leather work. By drawing on the traditional know-how and the precision of the local workforce, Ateliers Courtin have developed a leather weaving and caning technique with a warp length of up to 10 meters.
Their collaboration with the BBK leathergoods workshops provides a source of reinforcements and finishes, so that products can be used for ready-to-wear, leather goods and interior decoration.
Leather weaving and caning
KANCHEEPURA – India
Atelier Marion Chopineau
A truly multidisciplinary research workshop, Marion Chopineau ’s Parisian studio explores many traditional textile traditions – embroidery, basketry, matting, macrame, pleating, dyeing, and printing – and combines them with digital printing, laser cutting and 3D moulding as well as techniques from other fields such as sculpture, hairdressing and mosaic work.
Designed for application in luxury ready-to-wear and haute couture collections, this unexpected, transversal approach to textile finishing offers endless possibilities for sampling and prototyping.
Artisanal methods of finishing
PARIS – France
Atelier Richard de Latour
Hand painting, screen printing, needle tufting, cut-outs, embroidery, lamination… in his workshop Richard de Latour develops and reinvents new techniques for embellishing textiles through the juxtaposition of different methods.
To offer fresh inspirations and unique materials to the haute couture, ready-towear and interiors sectors, Richard de Latour experiments with a multitude of combinations, conjugating a palette of different appearances and textures in order to embellish textiles and leather.
Artisanal methods of finishing
SAINT MARTIN DE RÉ – France
Authentic Material
Developed from technological processes resulting from research work in powder metallurgy, the unique and patented savoir-faire of Authentic Material reinvents the properties of its materials and celebrates the meeting of hightechnology and craftsmanship.
Be it horn, leather, shells or rare wood species, the new mechanical and aesthetic properties of the materials thus transformed allow luxury and creative brands to imagine new applications for the manufacture of accessories in the fields of objets d’art, eyewear, jewelry, and watchmaking.
Recomposed raw materials
TOULOUSE – France
Cécile Feilchenfeldt Knitwearstudio Paris
The expertise of Cécile Feilchenfeldt, lies primarily in combining traditional knit techniques with new fibres to create unexpected and sometimes even playful effects. She enjoys juxtaposing colours. With a background in costume and set design, her expressiveness is funnelled through a heightened attention to volume proportions, and to the motion created by fabric.
Experimentation is the basis of creativity in her workshop. Above all she believes in letting the yarn express itself, and her work then feeds on shifts and variations brought about by analysis and chance observations.
Semi-mechanical knitting
PARIS – France
Janaïna Milheiro
An artisan-designer, Janaïna Milheiro primarily works in handmade silks and feather-weavings, but also creates original lace and embroidery designs. Creating a dialogue between feathers and textiles is for her a way of enriching the creative language of fashion by initiating a give-and-take, which is testified to by the veils, velvets, beadings and laces which result from this exchange.
Her creative approach is influenced by different techniques: embroidery, lace making and sewing on the one hand, with weaving, knitting, printing and braiding on the other hand. These feather-fabrics demonstrate Janaina’s polyvalent vision of textiles.
Hand weaving and feather work
PARIS – France
Maison Vermeulen Plumassier
Julien Vermeulen is a visual artist and distinguished artisan who is pushing the boundaries of traditional featherwork, experimenting with the interaction of light on the unique material that is the feather.
His research has taken featherwork to unexpected places – including feather mosaics and flockings that make materials vibrate, imparting unprecedented shine and unexpected textures.
Feather work
BRISSAC – France
Sericyne
After several years of research, Sericyne finally saw the light of day in 2015 thanks to Clara Hardy and Constance Madaule, a textile designer and agronomic engineer, respectively.
Combining science with creation, the two women developed a method to work with silk that does not spin thread from cocoon fibers but, similar to 3D printing, uses fine layers of silk to directly construct an infinite variety of forms and volumes.
Nonwoven silk
PARIS – France
Superlativa – Berbrand
Superlativa combines the nobility of genuine mother-of-pearl with brand- new and environmentally friendly veneering technology. This new material comes in the form of a flexible microfilm and preserves all the magic and reflective properties of mother-of-pearl.
It can be applied to rigid and flexible surfaces and Superlativa can be used in a wide variety of sectors including fashion, jewellery, timepieces, eyewear, interiors and even the automobile sector.
Mother-of-pearl plating
GRUMELLO DEL MONTE – Italy
Xavier Brisoux
A specialist in knitted fabrics, Xavier Brisoux transcends traditional techniques and creates knitted volumes that appear to have been inspired by draping, pleating or smocking.
His mastery of knitting produces items of extreme density and he focuses on garment volumes, row after row and stitch after stich, with yarns becoming veritable sculptures, thus highlighting the duality of textiles, the dichotomy between fragility and strength.
Semi-mechanical knitting
LILLE – France
Ancestral techniques
This February, 6 ateliers from 6 different countries, namely India, France, the UAE, Japan, Italy and Germany, will present ancestral techniques in hand pleating, artisanal weaving, traditional dyeing, and embroidery on manually-operated machines.
Aurélia Leblanc
After studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Brussels, Aurélia Leblanc launched her craft weaving business in 2016 in Paris. She specializes in weaving and sometimes combines this technique with textile printing or embroidery.
Metal yarns and banana fibres, denim dyeing on an aloe vera yarn or even horsehair mixed with ostrich feather: through original material blends she unveils unexpected and surrealist textures’ vocabulary.
Hand weaving
PARIS – France
Kaga Yuzen Maida
Yuzen is a traditional Japanese craft dating back to the 17th century. It consists of creating extremely fine motifs using rice, soybean or seaweed paste to outline the areas to be dyed.
Founded in 1932, Maida is based in Kanazawa, one of the main birthplaces of Japanese Yuzen craftsmanship. The technique requires 13 manual operations to prepare the silk fabric, design the patterns and apply the colors, all of which is done in-house.
Yuzen dyeing
ISHIKAWA – Japan
Ricami Laura
This Italian workshop specialized in embroidery with hand-operated machines distinguishes itself through its experience in developing collections and its ability to perform in-house design and illustration, pattern-making, sewing and cutting.
Equipped with many machines to realize the jour echelle stitch, Cornely, doubleneedle and other specific machines for laces and sequins, the workshop spans techniques and skills. This breadth gives it the degree of autonomy needed to ensure fluidity in making unique pieces tailored to the runway and the red carpet.
Hand and machine embroideries
SAN MARTINO IN RIO – Italy
Shimogawa
No fewer than 30 steps are needed to successfully create a Kasuri weave, which involves the independent placement of colored motifs on the warp and on the weft. This traditional double Ikat technique offers a wide range of possibilities and compositions thanks to various yarn dyeing techniques.
Shimokawa Orimono is contributing to the international recognition of Kasuri by expanding its collaborations with textile designers, fashion houses and artists outside Japan, adapting the tradition to clothing designers’ creative requirements.
Kasuri weaving
FUKOKA – Japan
Suzusan
Shibori is a traditional Japanese textile dyeing technique dating back over 400 years. Portions of the fabric’s surface are tied, sewn and folded through complex and delicate hand manipulations, and then tinted, creating degrades and color contrasts as well as three-dimensional motifs and pleat effects.
Suzusan has its roots in Arimatsu, where the Murase family has ennobled fabric for five generations according to the traditional Shibori methods.
Shibori – Hand weaving and pleating
NAGOYA – Japan / DUSSELDORF – Germany
Vernacular techniques
Finally, 4 ateliers from Japan and India will introduce you to the unique and exceptional know-how of their country: Eri silk from the foot of the Himalayas, ancestral boro from the Kojima region, the Indian technique called Kalamkari, and a high-quality wool made in Japan.
Ereena
Founded in 2013 by Jyoti Reddy, Ereena’s workshops master all the production stages of eri silk, from worm breeding to spinning and dyeing to weaving.
This silk, with its satin-like appearance and multiple soft and isothermal properties, is considered non-violent because, like wild silk, its manufacturing process does not involve killing the silkworms that produce their cocoons. Easy to dye and maintain, eri silk also respects the environment, as its treatment requires very little water and no chemical agents.
Spinning, weaving and dyeing of Eri silk
HYDERABAD – India
Hangloose
The Kojima region in the south of Japan is famous for its industrial production of denim, and particularly renowned for its highly creative finishing and vintage effects, principally done by hand. Derived from the Japanese word boroboro, meaning «tattered or patched», Boro is an ancestral Japanese patchwork technique.
Hangloose combines these two local know-hows with the principles of sustainability, the recycling, re-use and upcycling of garments to offer a production
Denim boro
OKAYAMA – Japan
Kashida Studio
Kashida Studio is committed to preserving the Kalamkari technique – an ancient art of textile embellishment practiced in South India that combines freehand painting and delicate hand embroidery made of pure silk threads – in a sustainable social and industrial practice.
The team includes over 300 highly qualified craftsmen and designers that ensure excellency and a know-how preservation.
Hand embroidery
GOPALPURA BYEPASS – India
Kasagi Fiber Studio
Since 2018, Kasagi Fiber Studio has been grazing its own sheep on a small family farm and has created a local processing circuit to fabricate high- quality wool products.
This specialized know- how makes it possible to transform previously unused wool resources into superior-quality products.
Wool production, spinning and weaving
OHDA – Japan
Learn more about the Maison d’Exceptions exhibitors →
Discover February’s edition of PV Paris →
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