Lingerie focus: blurring the lines The - Spring-Summer 24 - Première Vision Paris
Lingerie corsetry steps back into the spotlight with revamped products, a sign of growing consumer interest. Generally constituting fun purchases for men and women alike, the offer is enriched with expanded designs and know-hows, enriched with technical features to ensure a by-now non-negotiable comfort. The lingerie offer is diversifying and expanding its market.
A renewed interest in corsetry can be spotted in the novel ways the look is being appropriated, with under-garments worn openly as outer garments, and ready-to-wear that transposes lingerie’s aesthetic codes onto dresses, tops and pants.
Spring-Summer 24 reflects a mix of genres – from authentic proposals distinguished by fine artisanship and a trousseau spirit, to sporty lingerie inspired by active sports and beachwear, to preciously subtle looks incorporating botanical motifs.
An artisanal resonance
The season celebrates a certain idea of artisanry. Traditional know-hows are adapted to modern uses. There’s a tribute to handwork, with a crochet and macramé spirit transposed onto lace and embroidery. The florals are old, the guipures are cotton. The knits are delicate, airy, and decorative. Trims feature multiple ruched, ruffled and flounced effects. Accessories feature flat cords and fine braids to lace. A somewhat rustic look to proposals, inspired by old-world linens.
Traditionally, activewear and lingerie are two very distinct universes. One is renowned for comfort and technical performance, the other for seductive appeal and delicate hand craftsmanship. Today, the lines are blurring. Each side of the spectrum draws inspiration from the other, borrowing codes from the other – once and for all reconciling technical prowess and charm.
A sports influence freshens up lingerie collections. Print patterns are geometric or composed of spaced-out flat tints. Laces have a graphic look and are partially opaque. Engineered stripes grow more prominent, in everything from yarn-dyeds to prints and embroideries. Colorful finishings are elaborated in dynamic contrast. Even leavers lace, with its heritage of exceptional know-how, draws on these elements for modern and colorful proposals.
There’s a growing cross-over between lingerie and swimwear. Bi-stretch knits play on the ambiguity between underwear and swimwear. Materials are malleable, sheathing and body-sculpting. Fishnets, lace and anatomical knits are worn as second-skins. Comfort and functionalities are hidden under gracefully worked fantasy. The meetup of charm and modernity opens the way to lingerie that is both dynamic and romantic, or to more sophisticated swimwear.
This season, preciousness is delicately expressed. Fine laces and knits come in soft hues: warm beiges, pale pinks and subtle orangish tones. The texture of the material is emphasized by discreet shines: metallic yarns slipped into stretchy knits and wovens, while subtly colored metallizations enliven in lace, embroidery and jacquards.
In terms of motifs, pattern typically developed for apparel now make their way into lingerie, which moves away from traditional floral motifs to embrace new hybrid designs. Embroidery, lace, jacquards and motifs play on an ambiguity between abstract and botanical motifs. Zebra stripes are worked alongside leaf veins, and feathers flirt with scales. Prints cloud a fantasized vision of nature.