Focus Autumn-Winter 23-24: Changes in masculine tailoring

Less formal and freer in style, the Smart male wardrobe for Autumn-Winter 23-24 nevertheless remains elegant. A revised and corrected version of the citywear spirit seen on recent catwalks confirms the desire to redefine conventional codes. The boundaries between clothing segments become more porous, adding to the interrogation around the notion of gender. To respond to this desire for freedom, drapery is moving off the beaten track and encourages us to navigate with ease between more eccentric invisible and visual qualities.

Intrinsic sobriety 

Changes in lifestyle are inviting designers to reassess the codes of tailoring and go back to basics. Drapery for the AW 23-24 season illustrates this desire through a search for sobriety and inner quality.This quest can be seen in a density of materials, characteristic of the season, but also in a fluidity and energy that expresses the desire to move towards innovative stylistic propositions.

Flowing drapery

For the upcoming season, drapery favors new constructions with mechanical stretch. Thanks to the way the yarns are twisted and given the characteristic springiness of wool, these weaves offer natural elasticity and softness that constitutes an eco-responsible alternative to conventional elastanes. A means of combining comfort with a variety of cuts, notably propositions for closer-fitting jackets and pants that are slightly bootcut.

This liberty of movement can also be found in the fluidity of materials with fabrics that demonstrate that they are both lightweight and dynamic. In 100% wool or blended with viscose or cellulosics, these fabrics can be used for volumes that are both ample and fluid. Designers display their taste for outsize shapes, which also enable a deliberate blurring of genders. Long, wide Bermuda shorts resemble skirts while pants boast voluminous draping at the waist bringing to mind sarongs. Sometimes a mini-skirt is layered over masculine pants and worn with a pair of very simple sneakers.


Densified comfort

This sobriety is also seen in the refined density of materials, made from blends that are both robust and elegant. Felts and woolens are compressed, with a reassuring consistency and very tight contextures. These maximum comfort essentials are produced in neutral tones, with a predilection for palettes of dyed greys.

Jackets are given a sporty look by borrowing the details of bombers with ribbing and patch pockets, enlarged to the extreme. Used for bottoms, these materials are used to produce relaxed and fitted trousers with pronounced pleats or jogging pants that taper at the ankles. Combined with sharp, straight-cut jackets, these items can easily transpose the comfort of loungewear into office wear to offer a less ostentatious vision of luxury.  

Quirky classics 

This season, men’s suits also reveal a more experimental and instinctive facet. This approach embraces a spontaneous spirit and strives to revisit the timeless classics. Draperies and woolens are inspired by traditional references and then twist them with a touch of humor: a way of refocusing on the essentials without taking things too seriously, offering them a visual and tactile added value.

Singular structures

A game of illusion appears in the menswear collections of the next Autumn-Winter season, to stand out from the basics. Timeless items are reworked through the filter of a discreet sensoriality that showcases intrinsic added values. The weaves of the fabrics are more complex and demonstrate real know-how. The structures of fabrics are precise and plains are decorated with more or less visible details. These textured surfaces take the form of honeycomb or mini geometric weaves. Subtle details that require a trained eye, showcasing a more discreet luxury only for those in the know. To be produced in bright colors on sharply-cut shapes: close-fitting jackets and impertinently ankle-grazing pants.

Stylish herringbone

The decorations of the season’s draperies confidently lay claim to their singularity and their desire to feel unique. Too large, too small, they combine and interlock on the season’s suit jackets with just a hint of self-deprecation. Blends express a certain eccentricity though the use of colored yarns and tactile materials. Jackets and trousers are designed in classic formats, straight or barely flared, but the motifs are proudly combined in a total look covering everything including the bags, to offer a deliciously retro style. In a mini, monochrome version, suits take on a graphic air. And in a more extravagant register, formats and colors alternate frenetically, appearing on collars, pockets or on both the inner and outer fabrics of garments.

Discover our other Autumn-Winter 23-24 decodings focused on woolens and draperies.

Découvrez nos autres décryptages de l’Automne-Hiver 23-24 dédiés au lainage et aux draperies.

Previous post Today’s eco-question: Can we make technical clothing without using synthetic materials? Next post Autumn-Winter 23-24: Men’s footwear