Denim decodings: Interference The - Autumn-Winter 24-25 - Denim Première Vision
Denim Première Vision takes place from May 31st to June 1st in Berlin. For a glimpse of the upcoming denim trends, discover our preview decoding of one of next season’s creative directions.
The AW 24-25 season emphasizes blurry visuals. As if subject to interference, materials evoke crumpled paper, ashen landscapes, digital noise. For denim that embraces its own sense of mystery.
Like glitches on a screen, a colorful interference enlivens this season’s denim. These bright accents are translated by colorful wefts, yarn-dyeds, neps and even embroideries. Whatever the medium, they’re expressed in cheerful color schemes combined with an extremely subtle rainbow effect. With microscopic scales and tones that look diffused, as if sprayed on, discernible by only the most watchful eyes.
Noise and waves
Yarn effects with irregular textures conjure up the look of digital noise. A pixelated pointillism broken down in bouclette interpretations, or wrinkled aspects worked in mini-scales.
An interference also interpreted in subtle wash-outs on square plain weaves. These marked constructions are accentuated by irregular washes.
This season, indigo has a crackled look. Thanks to the use of an acid wash, icy and cloudy effects are attained, evoking snow and cold. These aspects juxtapose indigo and white, in color contrasts that are quite stark for a winter season. White gabardines are dyed with natural indigo in a gel application on a white base, creating precious imperfections. The papery feel is emphasized by raised, worn or distressed textures.
Scrapings make a big comeback. This type of dye, which involves the use of a coating, allows color to be applied in broad, covering layers. Various techniques stand out this season, such as scrapings on an undyed base, scrapings followed by wash-outs, and even the creation of prints inspired by scraped effects.
Following a SS 24 marked by denims tinged with warm nuances, the new season focuses on grey, ashy shades. A cold and slightly dirty atmosphere, echoing grunge influences in a more casual version. Desaturated bases, elaborated with quite diffuse washes, for denim that looks as if it has emerged from a mysterious mist.
Hazy, slightly greyed visuals are also a hallmark of recycled textiles. In post-consumer mechanical recycling, the original hues of the garments are retained, without bleaching or re-dyeing. The resulting yarns have an almost muddled appearance, reflecting their former lives. For a new take on nostalgia perhaps?
In terms of overdyed denims, green is hands-down the color of the season. It is interpreted every which way, from mineral and organic khaki, to the more artificial-looking aqua and mint water. An ode to nature and its chlorophyll shades, in a totally vintage ambiance. An atmosphere accentuated by the use of plant motifs on over-dyes.
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