AW 23-24 Style Focus: the menswear refresh

Men’s looks for Autumn-Winter 23-24 embrace contradiction. A new way to consider luxury, they posit an easy pairing of opulence and restraint. Fabric visuals are proudly classic, while behaviors are amazingly versatile. Clothes vaunt their authenticity and strength, without turning to special finishings, and underline the honesty of the material. Whether ultra-dense or fluid, these materials point to an impeccable wardrobe, with looks poised between urban and casual wear.

To discover the selection of fabrics, accessories and leathers behind the looks for next Autumn-Winter 23-24, log in here with your Première Vision Paris account.

Opulent restraint

Or how to successfully mix minimalism and maximalism!

A quest for minimalism is found in this season’s smart menswear. Here, the wardrobe is pared down and lines are clean. The emphasis is on volume, which most fully displayed in motion, an ultra-modern fluid comfort.

Suitings in motion

Fundamental to building this neo-tailoring: ultra-high-quality, light and springy wools. In pure versions, they are characterized by their fineness and dry, crisp handles, which move away from a natural feel.

They emerge on pared-down overcoats, with clean, precise lines, with a surprisingly impeccable drape.

Eco-design expectations also prompt exhibitors to turn to mechanical stretch and cellulosic blends that accentuate fluidity. These materials and their full handles inspire fuller pants, deliberately too long, or straight suit jackets with imposing shoulders.

Flawless knits

Fluid woolens are offset by ultra-clean knits. These knits and their versatile uses open the door to garments bridging casual and city wear.

The office-wear silhouette turns away from shirtings in favor of elegant and comfortable T-shirts with simplified cuts. Cottons have dense constructions. They’re sometimes blended with recycled polyester and polyamide to add technical performance such as quick-dry and anti-odor features.

Interlocks and double-face fabrics that are impeccably uniform are right for compact hoodies and sweats with perfect fits. Worked in colors like this shocking pink, they create an eye-catching swath of solid color on a rigorously minimalist silhouette.

Taking refuge in density

One characteristic of the season is a search for density, which is also found in casual fabrics. A reassuring robustness is teamed with restrained visuals. Under a guise of anonymity, a low-profile approach enlivened by amply expressive volumes.

Sober strength

Larger items inspired by casualwear are worked in heavy garbardine, with tightly woven yarns to ensure a feeling of weight and substance. To showcase these fabrics, parkas are oversized and details deliberately out of proportion. Multiple flap pockets are enlarged to the max, and collars are prominent and protective. Double-faced and multi-layer constructions underline the solid, protective feel. Creative details are added to products, such as an interplay of colors, mixes of plains and prints, and contrasting piping.  

Urban tech

In pants, the emphasis is on cotton twills, sometimes in an elastane mix. Here too, firmly set structures underline a desire for strength and solidity. To emphasize an authentic quality, twill weaves are quite visible and well-marked, sometimes evoking raw denim. This authenticity is punctuated by elegant details that sophisticate the workwear wardrobe. Wide-cut pants are structured with over-stitched cut-outs, button details along leg bottoms, or signage color accents.


Bags meet new urban needs and combine functionality and elegance. Large messenger bags are embellished with multiple zipped pockets and made from sturdy, high-performance leathers. The leathers themselves are inspired by iconic varieties, such as waxed or mechanically grained leathers.

Footwear recalls big construction boots, given a playful refresh. Notched soles are worked in contrasting shades or combined with colorful stitching.

Read more of our AW 23-24 Style Focus articles here.  

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