AW 23-24 Style Focus: the menswear refresh The 27 September 2022 - Men's fashion - Leather - Designs - Accessories

Fundamental to building this neo-tailoring: ultra-high-quality, light and springy wools. In pure versions, they are characterized by their fineness and dry, crisp handles, which move away from a natural feel.

They emerge on pared-down overcoats, with clean, precise lines, with a surprisingly impeccable drape.

Eco-design expectations also prompt exhibitors to turn to mechanical stretch and cellulosic blends that accentuate fluidity. These materials and their full handles inspire fuller pants, deliberately too long, or straight suit jackets with imposing shoulders.

Fluid woolens are offset by ultra-clean knits. These knits and their versatile uses open the door to garments bridging casual and city wear.

The office-wear silhouette turns away from shirtings in favor of elegant and comfortable T-shirts with simplified cuts. Cottons have dense constructions. They’re sometimes blended with recycled polyester and polyamide to add technical performance such as quick-dry and anti-odor features.

Interlocks and double-face fabrics that are impeccably uniform are right for compact hoodies and sweats with perfect fits. Worked in colors like this shocking pink, they create an eye-catching swath of solid color on a rigorously minimalist silhouette.

Larger items inspired by casualwear are worked in heavy garbardine, with tightly woven yarns to ensure a feeling of weight and substance. To showcase these fabrics, parkas are oversized and details deliberately out of proportion. Multiple flap pockets are enlarged to the max, and collars are prominent and protective. Double-faced and multi-layer constructions underline the solid, protective feel. Creative details are added to products, such as an interplay of colors, mixes of plains and prints, and contrasting piping.  

In pants, the emphasis is on cotton twills, sometimes in an elastane mix. Here too, firmly set structures underline a desire for strength and solidity. To emphasize an authentic quality, twill weaves are quite visible and well-marked, sometimes evoking raw denim. This authenticity is punctuated by elegant details that sophisticate the workwear wardrobe. Wide-cut pants are structured with over-stitched cut-outs, button details along leg bottoms, or signage color accents.

Bags meet new urban needs and combine functionality and elegance. Large messenger bags are embellished with multiple zipped pockets and made from sturdy, high-performance leathers. The leathers themselves are inspired by iconic varieties, such as waxed or mechanically grained leathers.

Footwear recalls big construction boots, given a playful refresh. Notched soles are worked in contrasting shades or combined with colorful stitching.