Small fibres, big impact: Navigating fibre fragmentation in textiles

The environmental and health impacts of textile microfibre pollution have been a growing concern for the fashion and textile industry. Until now, much of the conversation has focused on the familiar scenario: synthetic microfibres (aka microplastics) released during washing, slipping through wastewater treatment systems and entering aquatic ecosystems. Yes, 35% of the microplastic pollution in the ocean comes from synthetic fabrics (such as polyester or polyamide, which are constituting the vast majority of our garments)¹, and yes, cleaning a polyester shirt every two weeks can release around 52,000 microplastic fibres per year. One unique synthetic clothing machine can release up to 700,000 microplastics, especially during the first washing cycles. Yet, emerging research and field data reveal a far more complex picture. Fibre fragmentation—the process by which tiny fibre particles are shed from textiles—occurs throughout the entire lifecycle of a garment, from its manufacturing to its disposal, affecting every step of the supply chain. And it does concern all types of fibres - natural and man made, which are not free of impact, as they are nearly all chemically treated, dyed, processed. As textile professionals, designers and sourcing teams grapple with these challenges, it has become increasingly clear that tackling fibre fragmentation demands a lifecycle approach, one that addresses not just consumer use-phase practices but also upstream yarn and textile design, midstream production processes and end-of-life considerations. Let’s try to broaden our understanding of fibre fragmentation and outline actionable pathways for reducing this hidden yet significant form of pollution.

Read also: Smart Key: Microfibers, macro-problem?

A broader lifecycle lens: Beyond microfibres in the wash

While the issue of microfibre pollution during laundry is well established, driven by influential studies like Vassilenko et al. (2021), recent findings show that fibre shedding begins much earlier in a textile’s life. Data from Palacios-Mar et al. (2022 ) reveal, actually not surprisingly – that the type of yarn and fabric construction has a critical role in determining how prone a textile is to shedding, even before it reaches the consumer. Short-staple fibres, such as cotton, have a greater tendency to release fragments than long, continuous filament yarns used in man-made fibres. Similarly, fabrics with loose weaves or knits—favoured for their soft drape and comfort—can be more prone to shedding compared to tighter, more compact structures.

©Unsplash / Sergio Gonzalez

Pre-treatments and manufacturing processes also play a significant role. Dyeing and finishing treatments can compromise the integrity of fibres. The dyeing stage alone has been shown to account for up to 95% of fibre emissions during textile production. Mechanical finishing techniques such as brushing and sanding, while enhancing the aesthetic or tactile qualities of a fabric, can significantly increase its propensity to shed. For instance, brushed fabrics can release orders of magnitude more fibre fragments compared to their unbrushed counterparts.  

"Interdependence of Factors: Fabrics behave differently, and the interdependence of factors along the supply chain (e.g., fabric construction, dyeing, finishing) makes it difficult to generalise results across fabrics. While identifying trends to prioritise key influencing variables is essential, strategies should be informed by both broad data and the unique characteristics of each fabric".

Behind the Break, Fashion for Good & The Microfibre Consortium (2025)

Recycled fibres—a cornerstone of the industry’s circularity aspirations—bring their own complexity. Mechanically recycled fibres are typically shorter and weaker than virgin fibres, which can lead to higher shedding rates. However, data on this is still evolving. Conflicting findings, such as those in the Behind the Break report versus Palacios-Mar et al., highlight the urgent need for more standardised testing and transparent reporting.

This lifecycle shedding reality challenges the industry to think beyond washing machine filters and consumer habits. To effectively mitigate fibre fragmentation, one should look upstream to design and production practices that influence shedding long before garments reach our homes.

Shedding data: Moving from awareness to action

Quantitative data has been the missing link in developing effective interventions for fibre fragmentation. By providing detailed measurements of fibre shedding across different yarn types, weaves and finishes, the new reports show, for instance, that certain yarn types and constructions can shed up to ten times more fibres than others under the same washing conditions. This data empowers textile professionals—whether in design, development or sourcing—to make more informed choices that prioritise lower shedding profiles from the outset.

©Unsplash / Naja Bertolt

Similarly, The Microfibre Consortium (TMC)'s "Preliminary Guidelines for effluent management" introduce a practical lever for manufacturers. Their work correlates Total Suspended Solids (TSS) in wastewater with fibre fragment concentrations, offering a cost-effective indicator for monitoring and improving wastewater quality. This approach helps manufacturers benchmark their processes and identify hotspots where interventions are most needed.

Yet, significant gaps remain. Most standardised tests focus solely on waterborne emissions during washing, leaving a blind spot around airborne shedding. Recent findings confirm that drying—particularly tumble drying—can release significant quantities of fibres directly into the air. Even more overlooked is fibre shedding during wear and daily use, which occurs through abrasion and environmental exposure. In real-world conditions, shedding pathways are interconnected: fibres released into the air can settle on land or water surfaces, contributing to a complex pollution cycle that defies easy measurement.

Biodegradability, toxicity and the complexity of environmental fate

A common misconception in the sustainability narrative is that natural fibres, being "biodegradable", pose minimal risk. However, biodegradability is a very complex and context-dependent process. Research indicates that the rate and completeness of fibre biodegradation depend heavily on environmental conditions—oxygen levels, temperature, microbial activity and the presence of certain chemicals. Laboratory tests, while informative, often fail to replicate the complex, shifting conditions in real ecosystems.

Natural and man-made artificial fibres (such as viscose or modal) may break down faster than synthetics, but this rapid degradation can also release associated dyes and finishing chemicals more quickly into the environment. Conversely, synthetic fibres like polyester degrade much more slowly, but their strong persistence causes certainly long-term physical harm to organisms and ecosystems. This complexity underscores the need for more robust field data to complement laboratory findings.

Similarly, the toxicity of fibre fragments—whether natural or synthetic—remains underexplored. While much of the public concern has focused on synthetic microplastics, studies show that natural fibres can also cause harm through physical mechanisms like food dilution and tissue abrasion. Moreover, the diverse chemical treatments used in textile production—dyes, finishes, softeners—can add another layer of risk, especially as these chemicals can desorb or transform during fibre fragmentation.

©Unsplash / Alex Shuper

In search for solutions: Upstream to downstream interventions

The picture that emerges is one of complexity but also of opportunity. Addressing fibre fragmentation requires a solutions portfolio that spans the entire textile value chain:

-    Upstream interventions: Designing out shedding
Design and fibre selection are critical leverage points. Palacios-Mar et al.’s data confirm that tighter weaves, higher twist yarns and filament constructions can significantly reduce shedding at the source. Chemical and mechanical finishing processes (such as biopolishing, abrasion-resistant coatings and alternative, waterless dyeing methods) offer further opportunities, provided they are rigorously assessed for unintended environmental or durability trade-offs.

-    Midstream interventions: Manufacturing controls and effluent management
Industrial-scale filtration systems and optimised effluent treatment can capture a significant portion of fibre fragments before they enter natural ecosystems. The TMC’s work on TSS (Total Suspended Solids) monitoring offers an accessible starting point for facilities to assess and improve performance. Yet, the cost and complexity of these solutions require collective action—industry standards, financial incentives and regulatory support to ensure adoption across supply chains, especially for smaller mills and manufacturers.

-    Downstream interventions: Engaging consumers and closing the loop
At the consumer level, domestic washing machine filters, integrated in the machines or simple « guppy friends » bags can reduce emissions during laundry. Simple behavioural changes—washing at lower temperatures, shorter cycles and full loads—can also help. However, these downstream solutions have limited impact on airborne or end-of-life shedding. Raising public awareness is vital, but without robust upstream action, it risks shifting responsibility unfairly onto consumers.

Closing the gaps: The need for standardisation and collaboration

©Unsplash / Soren Funk

The next frontier for the industry is to bridge persistent knowledge gaps through collaboration and data sharing. Standardised testing protocols that include not just waterborne emissions but also airborne and end-of-life shedding are urgently needed. Equally important is transparency around fibre treatments and chemical additives, which can influence both shedding behaviour and environmental toxicity.

Policy frameworks must evolve to reflect this broader picture. While efforts like the European Green Deal and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes provide momentum, regulations must go beyond consumer washing habits to encompass design, production and end-of-life stages. Global alignment is crucial: while much of the regulatory focus is currently in the Global North, the realities of textile production and washing practices in the Global South also demand inclusion and investment.

To conclude, surely fibre fragmentation is a multifaceted challenge that spans beyond washing machines and beyond synthetic fibres. It reflects the complex interactions of textile design, manufacturing practices, consumer use, and disposal habits—woven together in ways that demand collective, systemic solutions. For designers and developers, it means understanding the specialities of fibres, yarns and textile construction, embracing data on shedding profiles and incorporating them into material choices. For manufacturers, it means investing in better effluent controls and testing standards. For brands and policymakers, it means fostering collaboration and supporting innovation—ensuring that circularity and responsibility go hand in hand.

As the industry continues to explore the next generation of sustainable materials and processes, fibre fragmentation stands as both a challenge and an opportunity: a chance to demonstrate leadership by addressing a pollution pathway that has long remained invisible, yet touches every stage of a textile’s life. Within this complexity, let’s hope for regulation to drive a change. Currently, PEF can partially reflect microplastic concerns via eco toxicity and eutrophication—but there’s still growing pressure to develop dedicated impact indicators for microplastics and maybe even update the PEFCR (Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules) for textiles to include microplastic release explicitly.

©Unplash / K15 Photos

We’ll be diving into the latest updates for legislation in our next article—but a final note on the EU Regulation on microplastics : It stems from REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) and aims to restrict intentional microplastics in products (like glitter, exfoliating beads) and to address unintentional microplastic release, including microfibre shedding from textiles. In France, under the Loi AGEC (Anti-waste and Circular Economy Act), from 1st January 2025, all new washing machines sold in France must be equipped with microplastic (microfibre) filters. The law also requires that textile products containing over 50% synthetic fibres include the statement "sheds plastic microfibres into the environment during washing".

Nonetheless, if we take a distanced look at these issues—we clearly see that the elephant in the room is and remains overproduction. Because the broader subject of pollution is directly tied to the still growing global use and production of plastics (including synthetic fibres) (the textile sector being the 3rd sector using plastics, 14,2% after packaging and building*).