PFAS and Fashion: A guide to risks, regulations and safer solutions
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), often nicknamed “forever chemicals,” are a vast group of synthetic compounds—over 9,000 are known—that resist heat, water, oil, and degradation. Their durability stems from exceptionally strong carbon–fluorine bonds, making them both effective and environmentally persistent. While widely recognised for their use in non-stick cookware (see Dark Waters or Camille Étienne’s 2024 report ), PFAS are also common in textiles—particularly as durable water repellents (DWRs) in rainwear, sportswear, and technical outdoor gear.
These finishes help garments resist water and stains, improve longevity, and prevent “wet-out” in performance apparel. Globally, around 35% of PFAS production is used in textiles, including clothing, leather, carpets, and ski waxes.
Yet this performance comes at a price. Due to their persistency, PFAS have been detected worldwide—from Arctic wildlife to human bloodstreams. According to Santé Publique France and the CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention), nearly all people have detectable levels of PFAS in their bodies, largely through contaminated food, water, air, and everyday consumer products.
The health risk are significant. In 2023, the WHO’s cancer research agency classified PFOA as carcinogenic and PFOS as possibly carcinogenic. Studies have linked PFAS exposure to endocrine disruption, immune suppression, high cholesterol, reproductive harm, and various cancers. Because these chemicals accumulate over time, even low levels can be harmful with prolonged exposure.
Their impact also challenges circularity. PFAS-treated textiles are difficult to recycle or safely dispose of, as the chemicals can leach during degradation, incineration, or landfill storage. According to the European Environment Agency, PFAS are a major obstacle to textile reuse and recycling, undermining sustainability targets and contaminating otherwise recoverable materials.
Nevertheless, hope is on the horizon. One promising innovation is Earth+ , a biotech solution that removes PFAS from soil and groundwater using phytoremediation—plants that clean polluted environments. Like techniques used in post-nuclear remediation sites, Earth+ employs willow trees and industrial hemp, which not only absorb PFAS but also capture carbon. Hemp also offers a by-product for sustainable construction materials. Furthermore, Earth+ stands out for its traceability: satellite and drone imagery tracks plant growth and land use, while AI algorithms—developed with Microsoft—calculate projected CO₂ sequestration. The data is CSRD-compliant and eligible for verifiable carbon credits.
Regulations and industry response
Because of these hazards, governments are moving to phase out PFAS, and brands need to adapt quickly to remain compliant and protect consumers.
For example, U.S. states have enacted strict bans on PFAS in consumer apparel (e.g. California’s AB 1817 bans added PFAS in textiles starting January 2025. New York and Colorado similarly restrict PFAS in outdoor clothing (phasing out use by 2028).
In the EU, some PFAS groups, namely PFCA and PFHxA, are already banned from the use in consumer textiles. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is advocating a universal PFAS ban under the REACH Regulations, potentially influencing restrictions worldwide. Several countries have national laws: France has enacted a law on 27th of February, forbidding PFAS use ( importation, exportation and putting of the marked) of cosmetics, clothing, footwear and waterproofing agents from January 2026, with an exemption on military and firemen protective gear. From 2030, all textiles will have to be PFAS free. Denmark will ban PFAS-containing clothes and shoes for consumers as of July 2026.
The textile and fashion industry has begun to respond. Many brands now pledge to remove PFAS. Among sports and outdoor brands, Finisterre Lagoped, Picture Organic Clothing, Houdini but also Vaude are reporting full product ranges PFC-free. (More to find here : https://www.thegoodgoods.fr/media/sante-environnement/que-sont-les-pfas-ou-polluants-eternels-quelles-sont-les-marques-doutdoor-pfas-free/ )
Going hand-in-hand with certifications (e.g. bluesign®, Oeko-Tex®) that verify PFAS-free processes, more generalist fashion brands like Levi Strauss & Co officially banned PFAS from its products (extending earlier PFC bans). And even fast fashion giants like Uniqlo, or retailers in the Bestseller group have publicly eliminated PFAS finishes and switched to safer DWR treatments, like BIONIC-FINISH® ECO from Rudolf.
Nevertheless, textile manufacturers and brands face several obstacles in eliminating PFAS from clothing, especially performance issues, matching durability, water repellency, and stain resistance. Additionally, the complexity of the long supply chains makes it difficult for global brands to navigate evolving standards and legislations. This difficulty is increased by the lack of transparency, this lack of visibility into the chemicals used in their supply chain.
See also : https://www.premierevision.com/en/articles/4fcd79e3-77fa-ef11-90cb-00224888722c
What are the alternatives?
Advances in material science and chemistry are providing safer, high-performance alternatives that meet both regulatory requirements and consumer expectations.
But first, we could try to completely free from coatings all the way.
- Engineered fabrics with inherent performances like water repellency incarnate innovation at the very first stage of the textile construction itself. Tightly woven fabrics—especially if using hydrophobic and resistant fibres,—can naturally resist moisture, eliminating the need for additional chemical treatments. Natural fibres do excellent job here, as shown by the Optim Technology from the Woolmark company, used by Vollebak e.g., creating 100% merino wool water-repellent fabrics without any coating.
Nevertheless, sometimes, these constructions are combined with layering techniques or lamination to achieve high performance standards without reliance on synthetic finishes - yet this can lead to recyclability issues. Tackling this, Amphico is developing Amphitex™, a PFAS-free waterproof, breathable coating for performance textiles, which combined with their Amphidry™ Yarn that is inherently superhydrophic, will create a 100% recyclable fabric, as all the layers within are made from the same source material to create an innovative mono-material waterproof and breathable system. Sympatex are also working on a laminate made from 100% recycled « fiber2fiber" yarn, which was produced from chemically recycled old clothing and fabric scraps.
- Bio-based coatings, water-based and silicone finishes
Among the most accessible PFAS-free DWRs are water-based and silicone-based finishes, already in use in outerwear and sportswear. These form a surface barrier that repels water while maintaining breathability. Though not impact-free, they offer a markedly reduced toxicity profile compared to fluorinated options.
Bio-based solutions are also gaining traction. Sometimes it’s good to remember that some solutions exist already. Traditional wax finishes (from beeswax, soy, and other plants) provide natural water repellency. Chitosan—a biopolymer extracted from crustacean/crab shells—adds antimicrobial properties.
- Advanced Processing and Dry Technologies
In parallel, research institutions and start-ups are developing high-tech coatings to replace PFAS. For example, the Swiss lab Empa has pioneered a plasma-deposited siloxane coating: a 30‑nanometer-thick silicone-like film that makes fabrics extremely hydrophobic. Empa reports this plasma treatment outperforms PFAS finishes – it absorbs less water, dries faster, and retains repellency even after many washes. https://thetextilethinktank.org/pfas-free-water-repellent-textiles-with-plasma-coating
At Harvard’s Wyss Institute, the “Nixe” project has produced a bio-inspired polymer coating with nanoscale roughness. Applied to polyester, it delivers high water repellency without sacrificing breathability.
New dry processing methods—such as supercritical CO₂ dyeing and finishing—eliminate the need for water, solvents, and PFAS altogether. These high-pressure systems infuse dyes and finishes directly into the fibres, cutting waste and emissions. Plasma treatments similarly enhance surface properties without chemical runoff.
Other innovations include graphene-based coatings, prized for their durability and water resistance with minimal weight, and protein-based finishes inspired by lotus leaves and spider silk. Recycled and upcycled polymers are also being trialled as functional, circular finishing solutions.
While many of these remain at pilot scale, they signal the industry’s shift towards material intelligence and green chemistry like that of Beyond Surface Technologies.
From conversation to action
The textile industry is definitely steering toward PFAS-free solutions on multiple fronts, and combined with strategies to make clothing inherently durable and repairable, these innovations promise to deliver sportswear and performance garments that keep wearers dry without the “forever chemical” footprint.
Nevertheless, as there exists « a fundamental tension where startups need commercial uptake to fund certification, yet brands require certification before adoption »
It is necessary to take the leap !
« Move from conversation to action. Integrate these materials into actual products, even if it’s a small run.”
— Claire Miller, Principal Textile Designer at Amphico
Indeed, as the recent CFIN May 2025 report on Accelerating Circular Fashion in the UK concludes:
« As regulations like PFAS restrictions increasingly drive brand interest in sustainable alternatives, the potential for material innovations like Amphico’s grows. However, realising this potential requires brands to evolve from observers to active participants— investing early, sharing expertise, and championing innovation within their organisations.»
Sources :
European Environment Agency :
- PFAS in textiles in Europe’s circular economy
- Safe and sustainable alternatives could reduce use of PFAS in textiles and enhance reuse and recycling
WHO, International Agency for Research on Cancer : https://www.iarc.who.int/
https://monographs.iarc.who.int/news-events/volume-135-perfluorooctanoic-acid-pfoa-and-perfluorooctanesulfonic-acid-pfos/
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12403-022-00496-y
https://www.santepubliquefrance.fr/determinants-de-sante/exposition-a-des-substances-chimiques/perturbateurs-endocriniens/documents/rapport-synthese/impregnation-de-la-population-francaise-par-les-composes-perfluores-programme-national-de-biosurveillance-esteban-2014-2016
https://www.bluesign.com/en/pfas-in-clothing/
https://www.thegoodgoods.fr/media/sante-environnement/earth-depollue-sols-grace-a-la-phytoremediation-par-le-chanvre-industriel/
https://www.thegoodgoods.fr/media/sante-environnement/concevoir-des-vetements-outdoor-sans-pfas-lexemple-de-lagoped/
https://www.earthplus.eu/projects/pfas-cleanup-at-campus-vesta/
