Denim Première Vision SS27: Virtuous innovations in dyeing and finishings

As denim steps into Spring-Summer 2027, the pursuit of lowering the impacts of finishing practices is redefining industry standards. From improving chemistry in coloration to consequent reductions in water, energy, and chemical use, mills and finishers at Denim Première Vision SS27 are showcasing the depth and sophistication of responsible innovation. This is made possible through a holistic approach to environmental stewardship, driven by measurable impact and creative technology at every step, from better pretreatments to nuanced dyeing, over improved washings.

Innovations in chemical processes

A key challenge in denim finishing has been replacing hazardous substances traditionally used to achieve popular washes and effects.This, the conversation around chemical use in denim finishing, is continously evolving. Regulatory and consumer pressures make PFAS-free technologies paramount, particularly after leading brands formalised full phase-outs and stricter guidance for their supply chain.

Officina39, a consistent innovator in Denim (also producing colored powder dyestuff recycled from textile waste (their RecycromTM technology), is accelerating progress as much in auxiliaires, finishes and coloration. The company’s ZeroPP system, when developed in close combination with advanced laser, ozone, waterless and nebulization technologies, is a substitute for potassium permanganate, requiring fewer processing steps and no rinsing, whilst being applicable to sulphur black and other dyed garments. This is a watershed shift from labour-intensive, pollution-heavy processes towards cleaner, faster, and more consistent workflows.

Pure Denim continues to develop chemistry that respects the environment, using pigment systems that mimic indigo’s reactive behaviour but consume fewer resources. Their finishing lines increasingly incorporate processes that avoid caustic soda and potassium permanganate in favour of low-toxicity, enzyme-based alternatives. The result? A versatile palette of shades and fades, from pastel baby blue to deep sultry black, addressing both aesthetic diversity and environmental compliance. 

Water-wise finishings

Water remains one of the most critical topics for denim, in terms of coloration, washings and finishings.

Across SS27, exhibitors demonstrate profound advancements, with waterless and water-reduced technologies leading the way.

Besides (more or less) recent technologies like supercritical CO2, ultra-sound, foam (or even microwave) dyeing technologies, Soko Chimica’s proprietary hydrogel treatment epitomises this movement: the formulation can be administered in existing washing machinery but requires no dilution, reducing water needs to a minimum and greatly lessening energy demand. Montega, along with other key players, is optimising machine lines for water recycling, shrinking the number of washing stages and slashing the water and energy consumed per garment. Key dyeing methods now include also oxygen-rich baths, entirely waterless or near-zero water processes, which produce clean, saturated color with minimum footprint.

Innovations in dyes and dyeing

Closely linked to water, but also to chemistry, dyeing remains one of denim’s most resource-heavy processes, and SS27 exhibitors are rewriting the formula. Calik Denim’s Evogeny SS27 collection, featuring the Reactive Blue dye, maintains high elasticity whilst achieving low weft shrinkage, delivering intensely vibrant ‘lavender blue’ without excessive dye baths. Chloris™ lines into the expansion of biofabrication, providing bio-based indigo alternatives that meet industrial scale. Some mills work with plant based prereduced indigo, others are opting for selective colorfast pigments and smart pre-treatments, which allow for deeper color penetration with fewer application stages, bringing even more shades (intense, medium, dark, black, and pastel) within reach and reducing the burden on water and energy resources.

Research in digital polymer dyeing methods presents a shift towards on-demand and localized dyeing. It consequently reduces resource consumption and environmental impact while minimising waste by allowing manufacturers to dye textiles as needed and improving supply chain efficiency and agility.

Low-impact washes and finishes

Finishers are striving to find the balance of creative possibilities and reduced environmental impact. Bio-based enzymes and controlled ozone processes dominate, delivering sought-after soft handfeels and expressive fades with a gentle profile. Italian manufacturer Tonello continues to lead in adaptive machinery for eco-virtuous finishing. Their modular systems harness laser, ozone, and e-flow capabilities, facilitating a single platform for multiple low-impact finishes, enabling flexibility for mills and designers, without excess energy or chemical use. The investments are and should go not only in new hardware but also in intelligent software for utility tracking, ensuring every roll of fabric comes with a precise measure of its environmental footprint.

Spring-Summer 2027 shines as an era of responsible textural developments for denim, and this is surely the most speaking expression of the expertise and know-how of the Denim Pure Players, rooted in years of experience, research and experimentations.

As buyers and designers walk the halls of Denim Première Vision these next 26 and 27 November in Milan, they will encounter garments and textiles that personify the intersection of innovation and impact, where each finishing process is both an expression and a step towards a cleaner, more transparent supply chain.

Leading exhibitors such as ISKO, Kipas, Black Peony, Calik, Pure Denim, Tonello, SOKO CHIMICA, Officina39... are not merely reacting to sustainability imperatives. They are setting the pace for the industry, demonstrating that water, energy, and chemical reductions can sit harmoniously alongside heightened creativity and uncompromising quality.

With committed stewardship and next-gen technology at their fingertips, the Spring-Summer 27 season frames denim not just as a fabric of utility and style, but as a canvas for virtuous progress.