Première Vision

Spring-Summer 24 Fabrics: Silkies

February 9, 2023
Première Vision Paris
Fabrics
Silkies and Jacquards
Spring-Summer 24

Silkies have more body and lend a puffier look to voiles. They invent new volumes in artificial fiber versions with a powdery suppleness and an ever so lively drape. Woven through with linen, silks are firmer and flaunt satiny irregularities. At night, in versions vaunting an exceptional roundness, they radiate lightness, in the deceptive intangibility of reflections and transparencies.

Powdery suppleness

Supple yet never limp, plain wovens and twills in cupro or lyocell continue to enchant. Their powdery feel, their lively yet robust handles are instantly recognizable. We can’t get enough of their fresh touch, their irresistible springiness despite their softness, and the special way they have of staying puffy while draping so voluptuously. They imbue all hues with a delicate apricot-skin sheen. We’ll use them for elegantly modern tops and dresses with a skin-on-skin comfort.



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Satiny irregularity

In a paradoxical mix of fluidity and rigidity, satins with linen wefts create silkies with a lot of personality. A new kind of shantung, with irregular slubs scratching smooth and lustrous surfaces. Faces are soft, and backs are firm. And while these textiles are supple and fairly tame in the direction of the warp, their woody wefts resist folds – which will certainly spur some creative thinking for women’s suits, dresses and pants seeking to make the most of these special qualities.



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Exceptional roundness

Embossed jacquards, cloqué surfaces, ottomans, satin duchesse and organza compose a dazzling ballet of fancifully constructed silkies. By turns dense and opulent, or light and puffy, as effervescent as a bubbly champagne or smooth and polished like a mirror, they roundly embrace space without flinching. Light is diffracted and multiplied – combining transparencies and reflections in fleeting, hesitant, almost supernatural shimmers.



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