Visions Episode 10 - The New Denim Revolution

For years, denim was singled out for embodying all the excesses of globalized fashion: a production chain fragmented across several countries, the use of vast amounts of water, chemical-intensive washing processes, and sandblasting techniques that were particularly harmful to the environment… In an effort to suit every budget and keep pace with fashion trends, denim had gradually lost its soul. Within this highly accessible industry, consumer demand fueled a proliferation of cuts, colors, and fabrics. 

Today, jeans are worn by people of all ages, in every country, and across all social classes. They are inherently unisex and available in every market and at every price point, from luxury to mass market. For several years now, the sector has sought to turn denim into a symbol of innovation and transition for the entire production chain toward more sustainable practices, driven by growing demand for greater traceability and a reduced environmental impact. Each year, the Denim Première Vision trade show provides an opportunity to measure the progress of this “denim revolution.” In the run-up to its next edition, to be held on 26 & 27 November 2025, we talked to Julieta Mercerat, denim expert on the Première Vision Fashion Team.

A Technical but Highly Responsive Industry

Historically, the denim sector has had to meet very specific technical criteria, as Julieta Mercerat, denim expert on Première Vision’s Fashion Team, points out: the twill fabric is made of cotton with a white weft, the warp is dyed indigo, then washed, which allows different effects to be achieved through repeated washing. Despite the technical nature and complexity of the original product, what is striking is the speed with which this industry has worked to counter its negative image, responding to market expectations with impressive agility.

“The companies that were doing stonewashing half a century ago are often the very ones leading the transformation today”.

Technological Advances (Investing in New Machinery and Software)

Investing in advanced machinery and new technologies was a crucial prerequisite for the industry’s shift toward more responsible practices. These new tools have substantially reduced the number of highly polluting steps at multiple points along the production chain.

Laser

Upstream and at the very beginning of the production process, the introduction of laser technology made it possible to eliminate the step involving the use of potassium permanganate (PP spray), which also posed health risks for the technicians applying it. Today, visual effects such as whiskers on the fabric or faded marks at the knees are increasingly achieved using lasers, without the need for chemicals. At the same time, the same players have worked to reduce the amount of water used in the wet stages of fabric processing. Previously, garments were dipped from vat to vat, with various additives used to achieve the desired finishes. As a result, two key stages have been reworked: washing and dyeing.

New Washing and Dyeing Processes

“Thanks to software solutions, it is now possible to measure the environmental impact of a pair of jeans and significantly reduce the entire washing sequence. Previously, jeans went through a system of six or seven immersion vats. Now, machines allow everything to be concentrated into a single stage. Tonello, for example, which exhibits at Denim Première Vision, offers this type of “all-in-one” process. They truly represent the technologies of the future because they are adaptive. By adding accessories, they also reduce water consumption in other stages of production”. 

These technologies are also being developed by the Spanish company Jeanologia. Their “Colorbox” machine lowers the volume of water required during the dyeing stage. The Première Vision fashion team also sees strong potential in nebulisation technology: “Instead of immersing the product, it disperses just a few airborne droplets to moisten the fabric,” she adds, yielding clear reductions in water consumption.

Software Used by the Premium Market in all Territories

Europe is far from alone in adopting these technologies: China and Turkey are already highly advanced, and countries like Bangladesh and Tunisia are now beginning to implement them as well. Soon, the distressed effects on denim that vintage fans particularly appreciate will be achieved using this new software. “It’s already possible to scan a vintage pair of jeans you love, and the software will indicate exactly which laser treatment to use and where to apply it,” explains Julieta Mercerat. 

“Cela se fait en trente secondes, par des logiciels comme celui-ci de KolAI, whereas previously it would have taken a Photoshop expert several hours. For now, these tools, developed by start-ups and specialized companies, are used primarily in the premium and mid-market segments. But over time, they are expected to become standard across the industry, as they are very easy to use and can be adapted to all machines”.

The Cotton Challenge: Regenerative Farming, Recycled Cotton, and New Alternatives

Dans la balance de l'impact, la quantité d'eau nécessaire aux différents traitements de la pièce pesait lourd, mais la culture du coton tout autant. Sur cette question de la matière aussi, la filière a cherché des réponses et développé par exemple des cultures régénératives, en travaillant en collaboration étroite avec les cultivateurs de coton. L'industrie se penche aussi beaucoup sur les fibres artificielles cellulosiques, qui permettent d'obtenir un rendu plus souple de la toile. Le polyester continue à être utilisé par le marché bas de gamme, jamais toutefois dans de forts pourcentages.

When assessing environmental impact, the water used in denim processing is significant — but so is the footprint of cotton cultivation. To address this, the industry has explored new approaches, including regenerative cotton farming developed in close partnership with growers. There is also increasing interest in cellulosic fibers, which make the fabric more supple. Polyester continues to be used in the low-end market, but never in high percentages.

Pre-Reduced Indigo: A Solution

It is impossible to talk about denim without mentioning indigo. Given the small quantities of natural pigment available, green chemistry must compete to find alternatives. “Indigo remains synthetic in the vast majority of cases, but about half of it is now available as liquid pre-reduced indigo, which avoids the highly polluting reduction process. Companies such as Puredenim, exhibiting at the show, are pioneering the next generation: they manufacture ultrasonically reduced indigo, which also saves on the salts used with ordinary pigments. Likewise, cold-dyeing techniques are expected to become more common, delivering even greater CO₂ savings." These innovations will likely be extended to other colors in the future.

New Fibers Inspired by Sportswear

In the creative arena, the influence of sports will continue to have an impact on silhouettes as well as comfort. 

“The focus for the coming years will be on stretch. We are gradually trying to replace it with 100% bio-based products derived from co-products of the agri-food industry — as offered by companies such as Creora, Lycra Ecomade et Sorona,— or by mechanical processes that twist the cotton yarn to make it more elastic”.

Living Organisms: A New Area of Exploration

Lastly, another ecosystem is being extensively explored by the industry, which sees it as a valuable resource for reducing the use of inputs and chemicals: living organisms and microorganisms. “Companies are managing to obtain colors from fermentation processes that are set to develop on a larger scale. Firms like Pili and Huee offer bio-based dyes and pigments using processes that combine green chemistry and fermentation,” explains Julieta Mercerat. These processes are costly and are currently only used by luxury and premium brands, but in the long term, volumes are expected to increase and prices to fall. Among the innovations to be discovered at the Milan show, the Première Vision denim expert cites Emilie Gobay, who has succeeded in extracting recycled pigments from used textiles, opening up a fascinating new avenue for sourcing.

Revising one’s manufacturing chain to convert it to more sustainable processes doesn’t mean sacrificing creativity. While purists may argue that true denim must be raw, several major brands, including Acne and Diesel, have helped popularize printed denim, sometimes featuring double-sided finishes. Stella Blu’s “Wow World of Wonders Dye Technology,” for example, treats both sides of the fabric simultaneously without heat and with a dramatic reduction in water use (by nearly 90%). The outer face is printed with a washed effect, while the reverse displays the twill line. In the high-end and premium segments, designers are also exploring small-batch capsule fabrics woven from natural fibers such as wool and hemp.

As we can see, from AI and technologies that dramatically reduce water use to the incorporation of living micro-organisms for dyeing and advances in fiber recyclability that allow pigments to be extracted, the industry is using every lever at its disposal to reimagine the denim of tomorrow, striking a careful balance between modernity and traditional know-how. In doing so, it is responding to the diverse expectations of brands and consumers who, in this sector more than most, are powerful drivers of future innovation.