Solutions for virtuous and innovative textile, manufacturing and fashion sourcing at PV Paris – 1/2

In times when the only certainty is uncertainty, innovation becomes more than a competitive edge: it is the key to building a fashion industry that is resilient, creative and durable. Next 16–18 September, Première Vision Paris will once again be uniting a global network of actors and pioneers who are rethinking materials, from fibre to finished products and processes. This edition puts Innovation and Technology in the spotlight, echoing the show’s Innovation & Technology Manifesto, and will so every September edition, complementary to the February edition, where Savoir-Faire will be annually highlighted. From next-generation biomaterials and regenerative fibres to truly circular recycling systems and biotechnological colour, the exhibitors and talks at Première Vision will not only showcase ingenuity but also address the pressing realities of scaling these solutions for a commercial, global market.

The field of bio-based and next-generation materials has matured considerably in the past few years, moving beyond early prototypes to functional, scalable options. Visitors will find compelling examples such as Reishi® by MycoWorks, a mycelium-based biomaterial that can be customised for texture and performance, opening new creative and luxury possibilities. Two younger, but notable exhibitors to discover will be Alternative Innovation and Nutico.

Alternative Innovation’s founder, Pauline Weinmann, defines their “Alterskin®” technology as a “100% biobased, 100% recyclable, shape-memory bioresin made in France, designed to replace petroleum-based plastics in the leather and coated textile industries,” in a variety of forms, from flexible material to pellets or coatings. Nutico (Pitch 17 September, 4.30 PM Hall 6) brings a fresh perspective with materials derived from cocoa husks and walnut shells, turning agricultural by-products into low-impact PU and PVC free materials. Be sure not to miss the talk on “Emerging Materials and Sustainable Design: New Perspectives for Leather Goods and Footwear” led by Carine Montarras on Wednesday 17 at 12 PM.

©Nutico

For fibres, Ettitude’s CleanBamboo® is a notable example, a bamboo viscose made with a closed-loop, food-grade organic solvent process that produces hypoallergenic, breathable fabrics suitable for everything from bedding to apparel.

©AMSilk

In the field of biofabrication, renowned Spiber (Pitch 17 September 11 AM Hall 6) and AMSilk are pushing the limits of protein-based fibres, creating bioengineered fibres with remarkable tensile strength and softness, bridging the worlds of performance sportswear and couture.

The commercial and logistical realities of bringing biobased fibres to scale will be addressed in the talk “Materials of the Future: Can biobased deliver at scale?” on Tuesday 16 September at 11 AM featuring perspectives from Carmen Danner from AEONIQ HOLDING AG, Marco Zhu-Schneider from Dfine by Feinjersey and René Bethmann, consultant for the VAUDE Academy for Sustainable Business. Just after that talk, at 12, we will have the pleasure to have Textile Exchange’s Monica Buchan-Ng speaking on “The Role of Innovation in Scaling Preferred Production Systems for Materials”, looking at key innovations in material production, from regenerative agriculture to textile-to-textile recycling.

Indeed, circularity is no longer just an aspiration. A PV Paris, fibre-to-fibre recycling is presented as a tangible industrial process. Companies like Inovafil, (Pitch at 10 AM Thursday 18 September Hall 6) a European spinning mill driven by innovation, sustainability, and strong technical know-how, are showing the example with their INOVAFILRECICLA, a platform that encourages partnerships to develop 360º (closed loop) textile projects. Circlo (Pitch at 4PM Wednesday 17 Hall 6) provide, in a uniquely traceable and transparent way,  premium bespoke yarns made with up to 100% recycled cotton, and custom-designed fabrics, while EarthProtex (Pitch at 11:30 AM Tuesday 16 September Hall 6) are offering thermo-mechanical recycling of pre and post-consumer polyester waste into textiles. Södra’s OnceMore® technology has become a game-changer in chemical recycling for one of the most challenging waste streams: polycotton blends.

© Inovafil

The complexities, opportunities and myths surrounding these systems will be explored in two panels: “Does one still believe in recycled PU and polyester?” with EarthProtex, Petshka and BioAstra, (the two latter being the latest ANDAM innovation finalists) and “Tech, Feedstock and Flows: Inside the Recycling Value Chain” on Tuesday 16 September at 3 PM, a deep-dive into technologies, feedstock realities, logistical bottlenecks and the true potential of ‘100% recycled’ textiles, with insights from Lutz Walter from the Textile ETP, Andreas Dorner from RE&UP and Lucie Ladigue from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

In parallel, the reinvention of naturality is bringing heritage fibres into the 21st century. Incalpaca, one of the most specialised and sophisticated factories in the production and finishing of alpaca and vicuna fabrics, is elevating this noble fibre production by integrating certified sustainable and ethical farming practices with advanced processing for consistent, high-end quality. Be sure not to miss their Pitch on Tuesday 16 September at 12:30 Hall 5.

©Colorifix

Colour, possibly the most emotional signature of fashion, is undergoing its own revolution. Eyand has created a closed-loop dyeing process that eliminates the discharge of contaminated water, addressing one of the most polluting stages in textile production. Natural Cotton Colours offers fibres grown in naturally pigmented shades, avoiding dyeing altogether, ensuring a consequent lowering of water, chemistry, energy and time use. New exhibitor, Anatolian Colors (Pitch on Tuesday 16 September at 5:30 PM Hall 5) brings regional plant-based dye traditions into scalable industrial processes, while well-known Colorifix (Pitch at 2 PM Wednesday 17 September Hall 6) uses microorganisms to produce dyes.

Low-heat dyeing innovator Everdye (Pitch on the decarbonisation of the colour industry, with Philippe Berlan on Wednesday sept 17 September 2:30 AM Hall 6) is also working on fossil-free pigments. Together, these innovations are paving the way for a lower-impact, vibrant colour future in fashion and cosmetics. The talk “The Next Pigment Revolution: For a fossil-free future in fashion and beauty” on Wednesday 17 September at 11:00 AM will spotlight biotech breakthroughs in pigments, liquid iridescence and sequins, featuring Chloris, Sparxell, and Everdye.

©Sparxell

©Positive Materials

Regeneration is another strong theme. Cocccon specialises in organic peace silk, a cruelty-free alternative to traditional silk, catering to high-end markets seeking ethical luxury. More uses of regenerative cotton can found at Positive Materials, who exemplify a systemic and holistic approach, integrating research into lower-impact fibres with deep work on pretreatments, finishings and end-of-life solutions, aiming for true circularity with minimal environmental footprint.

The September edition of Première Vision Paris offers not just a look at what is new, but what is next. And, crucially, how these innovations can scale and integrate into existing fashion systems. Discover now the full programme of talks and pitches, and make sure you won’t miss the discussions shaping the next chapter in materials and manufacturing. Get your free pass and prepare to navigate the show as an open field for innovation.