Textile Glossary: Casual Wear Fabrics
Fabrics classified as "casual" are used in relaxed, informal wardrobes—a category that has evolved into a style in its own right.
History
Rooted in the so-called "American way of life," it emerged alongside the rise of the middle class in the 1950s and is defined by a rejection of formality and the erosion of traditional distinctions tied to profession, social class, and gender.
Influenced by sportswear, which originated in the late 19th century and emphasized comfort and freedom of movement, this style also draws on workwear and military field garments for their shared functionality.
Beginning in the 1960s, this American-born style spread globally, fueled by the cultural influence the United States held at the time. Its rise mirrored the sweeping societal changes led by baby boomers and countercultural movements. Today, casual wear has become deeply embedded in what is now universally recognized as "lifestyle."
Composition
Casualwear is, above all, accessible, comfortable, and easy to wear—qualities that fabrics used in this category must embody.
As the world’s leading cotton exporter and the birthplace of casual fashion, the United States helped establish cotton as the defining fiber of casualwear: affordable, durable, and easy to care for.
- While polyester is also practical and affordable, it plays a secondary role in casualwear—most often used in blends with cotton to improve drying time and enhance durability.
- Blends with elastane are common, offering the stretch needed for greater freedom of movement.
- Lyocell has emerged as a viable alternative to cotton, whose production raises ecological concerns. It holds up well to washing and offers a distinct drape, appreciated for its fluidity and natural spring.
- Linen, whether pure or blended, is valued for its sustainable image and authentic, relaxed look—qualities that align well with the casualwear aesthetic, though it tends to be more expensive.
- Hemp, used alone or in blends, is chosen for similar reasons as linen but offers a more rustic allure.
Casual wear fabrics list
Denim
See our article: Denim Glossary
History: Denim takes its name from the French city of Nîmes, which, over time, earned a reputation for producing affordable textiles. The famed toile de Nîmes is woven using a clever dye-saving method developed in the 17th century: only the warp threads are dyed, while the weft remains natural. The resulting 3/1 twill weave produces a fabric with a deep, uniform shade on the front—where the dyed warp threads dominate—and a noticeably paler tone on the reverse, where the undyed weft shows through. This smart technique accidentally paved the way for one of fashion’s most iconic materials: faded denim.
Technical Description: A 3/1 twill fabric using indigo threads in the warp and natural-colored threads in the weft.
Characteristics: Robust and compact, originally developed for durability. Since the 1980s and the rise of artificial denim washes, the focus has shifted to developing dyes that respond well to various washing techniques.
Product Applications: Jeans and related garments.
Gabardine
History: Gabardine was patented in 1888 by Thomas Burberry, who sought a fabric as rain-resistant as shepherds’ cloaks, but softer and lighter. The word gabardine, of Arabic origin, originally referred to a protective garment and is related to terms like cape and peacoat. This durable fabric proved its effectiveness in both early 20th-century polar expeditions and the trenches of World War I, in the form of the now-iconic trench coat.
Technical Description: A tightly woven twill with a pronounced, steep diagonal pattern, created through a dense weave and high-twist yarns. Its water resistance is built into the structure and often enhanced with a water-repellent finish.
Characteristics: When made from cotton, gabardine takes on a more rumpled, casual appearance.
Product Applications: Trench coats, driving coats, trousers, jackets.
Moleskin
History: This fabric was developed in the 17th century as a durable alternative to leather for workwear. English moleskin is known for its soft, velvety finish, while the French version tends to be glossier.
Technical Description: A tightly woven, dense, and heavyweight cotton satin constructed with two sets of warp threads—one of which creates the satin surface, either brushed (as in English moleskin) or coated (as in the French version).
Characteristics: Compact, smooth, thick, low-breathability, tear-resistant, and resistant to tearing and pulling.
Product Applications: Trousers, field jackets, blouson jackets, and workwear.
Cotton Satin
History: Originally developed in China—the birthplace of silk—this satin weave imparts a soft, natural luster to fabrics. Cotton satin has found diverse applications over time, appreciated for its sheen, density, and softness. In the 1980s and ’90s, it was used in S-300 military fatigues, made from a dense, compact cotton-polyester blend designed to provide protection against potential biological threats.
Technical Description: A cotton fabric with a satin weave.
Characteristics: Shiny, smooth, and soft, with a powdery effect when washed.
Product Applications: Chinos, military fatigues.
Cotton Duck
History: Derived from the Dutch word doek (meaning “cloth”), cotton duck has its roots in 17th-century Holland, a hub of fine textile production. Initially woven from hemp or linen for ship sails, it later found its way into durable workwear.
Technical Description: A heavy, tightly woven variant of the rep weave.
Characteristics: Wind-resistant and highly durable, with excellent resistance to abrasion, wear, and tearing.
Product Applications: Work jackets, trousers, overalls.
Drill
History: Drill takes its name from the Latin trilix, meaning “three threads,” which gave rise to treillis, the French term for military fatigues—valued for their durability.
Technical Description: A 3/1 twill cotton fabric with a dense weave, thick yarns, and a pronounced diagonal structure.
Characteristics: Thick, strong, and tightly woven.
Product Applications: Trousers, jeans, field jackets, and workwear.
Corduroy
History: Corduroy—also known as “cord velvet” in English—emerged in the 18th century. The words cord in English and côte in French both refer to the distinctive ribbed appearance of this particular velvet.
Technical Description: A fabric made with a plain weave base and an additional weft that creates soft floats aligned in the warp direction. After weaving, these floats are cut lengthwise and brushed to form the vertical ridges characteristic of corduroy. The longer the floats, the wider the wales and the higher the pile.
Characteristics: Velvet with vertical ribs of varying widths, soft and warm to the touch.
Product Applications: Trousers, suits, dresses, jackets, and even shirts, depending on the weight.
Oiled or Waxed Cotton
History: Efforts to waterproof cotton led to various developments prior to the invention of synthetic materials. In 18th-century England, the Royal Navy adopted cotton canvas impregnated with linseed oil. In 1823, Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh invented a method to bond rubber to fabric, giving rise to the Mackintosh coat. In 1894, British Millerain filed its first patent for cotton treated with oil and wax. In 1898, New Zealander Edward Le Roy created "oilskin" by coating sailcloth with linseed oil and wax. Today, there is no actual wax in the garments still commonly referred to as "waxed," a name popularized by Guy Cotten, who invented waterproof marine garments made from PVC-coated polyester. Despite advances in synthetics, oiled cotton has maintained its place in outdoor wear and is now experiencing a revival—even in sportswear—as a potentially less polluting alternative to fully synthetic materials.
Technical Description: Cotton canvas impregnated with oil and wax.
Characteristics: Water-repellent, crisp, and cool to the touch. The finish is not permanent but can be reapplied.
Product Applications: Outdoor apparel, hunting jackets.
Bachette
History: Bachette is a neologism derived from bâche, which initially described a garment before coming to denote the heavy-duty, waterproof textiles used for tents, caravans, and truck tarpaulins. Bachette refers to fabrics that resemble tent canvas but are adapted for use in clothing.
Technical Description: A densely woven plain-weave fabric with a high thread density.
Characteristics: Durable, rigid, and crisp, with an identical appearance on both sides.
Product Applications: Field jackets, trousers, trench coats.
Panama
History: Named after Panama straw hats—famous for their intricate weave—this fabric mirrors their texture through its distinctive basketweave construction.
Technical Description: A reversible basketweave fabric that allows for easy shaping thanks to its structure.
Technical Description: A reversible basketweave fabric that allows for easy shaping thanks to its structure.
Characteristics: Its pronounced weave gives it a textural character. Depending on how it’s woven, it can range from light and fluid to structured and weighty.
Product Applications: Shirts, jackets, trousers, or dresses, depending on fabric weight.
Coutil
History: Named after the fabric once used to cover mattresses throughout the Latin world and the Middle East, coutil shares linguistic roots with French terms like coussin (cushion), courtepointe (bedspread), and couette (duvet). Whether luxurious or utilitarian, the fabric was always prized for its dense weave and durability.
Technical Description: A high-density fabric in twill, cross twill, or herringbone weave, made from 100% cotton or cotton blends with linen or hemp. It features a twisted yarn warp and a single or twisted yarn weft, and can be plain or striped.
Characteristics: Highly resistant to wear and tensile stress.
Product Applications: Workwear, overalls, trousers, field jackets, outdoor jackets.
