AW 26-27 Decodings: Accessories & Components
Under the overarching theme of connections, Autumn-Winter 26-27 is aiming to cultivate encounters between technology and craftsmanship, between echoes of the past and contemporary concerns, weaving a narrative through which materials, colors and forms become powerful storytelling tools.
In accessories and components, this dynamic has expressed itself through the interplay of function and ornament, heritage and innovation. A multi-sensorial experience takes centre stage, embracing excess: color and texture converse with relief and shine. Ultimately, the pursuit of lower environmental impact accessories is opening pathways to new metallic alloys and the emergence of innovative biomaterials, which enrich the texture of functional accessories.
New Dynasties
The first forward-looking scenario immerses us in a new kind of nobility. Dark, at times gothic, accents elevate black as the backdrop to the palette. This intense mood is unfolding across a diversity of materials: velvet ribbons, beaded patches and feathers with oil-slick iridescence. The direction also heads into a more narrative, almost medieval, register, through combinations of black leather, eyelets and patinated silver chains, paired with floral ornaments in aged or blackened gilt metal.
The story continues with the discovery of abundant fleeces in desaturated tones: Mongolian lamb-like shearling, fox-inspired plumage, ribbons trimmed with flat-pile shearling or combed wool.
Metallics are displayed without restraint, alternating between gothic ornamentation and ultra-refined minimalism. A form of neo-goldsmithing in an aluminium spirit — sharp, spiky — stands in contrast with geometric pavings that are reminiscent of jewellery patches, precious chains and Art Deco rhinestones. At the opposite end of the spectrum, functional components are asserting radical purity: polished stainless-steel zips with discreet lustre, and a reduced environmental footprint thanks to galvanisation-free processes. Utilitarian techniques reinvented for contemporary luxury.
Ego-Eco
This season sees an environmental approach infused with a spirit of self-care. Eco-responsible innovations have been imagined as both protective and comforting.
In accessories and components, this has translated into references to biomimicry. The chromatic range revolves around skin tones, enriched with brilliant white and touches of green, conjuring up a “laboratory” atmosphere. Buttons feature semi-organic, semi-futuristic surfaces playing between pearlescence and veiled transparency. Silicone buckles and labels are adopting translucent peach harmonies, like second skins infused with serum.
The eternal muse that is nature inspires a richly organic and ornamental dimension. Woodland mosses, delicate feathers and ostrich down proliferate and transform. This metamorphosis of matter remains refined and precious, drawing on high-value techniques: tufted patches, fancy yarns, chenille, and bouclé.
Territories of Expressions
Materials and techniques have been reinvented in a pop and playful spirit. Functional accessories are turning decorative through bold color and texture play: color-block ribbons, graphic buttons and 80s-accented ropes.
More decorative still, certain accessories are exploring modular geometry: zips, patches, buckles and braids designed as colorful and naïve cogs.
Traditional prints — florals, stripes, checks — have been revisited in a profusion of colors, textures and techniques.
Florals range from miniature to oversized, enriched with sequins, metallic discs, embroidery in all-over or three-dimensional versions.
Checks, usually rigorous, are breaking free from convention to infiltrate every technique: braided leather, prints, woven constructions. Embroidered panels adopt tartan effects, while straps, braids and ribbons are reinterpreting iconic textile motifs in trompe-l’œil style.
