AW 26-27 Decodings: Decoration
Lace makers, embroiderers, weavers and print specialists showcase the vitality of their expertise and express their full creativity through their proposals for Autumn-Winter 26-27. Première Vision offers an expert and exclusive interpretation, highlighting the most qualitative and representative developments of the season.
Discover a selection of the key trends, unveiled at the September 2025 edition.
Jacquards
Luminescent Blooms
A bucolic and fantastical spirit is prevailing in jacquards, where radiant flowers burst from dark grounds. Jarring color contrasts, flamboyant metallics or fluorescent touches disturb the darkness. Within the patterns, a profusion of textures and reliefs sometimes evokes a hand-stitched cross-stitch, a pixelated rendering, or painterly effects, in shades of copper, orange, pink, and vivid turquoise.
Denim Mania
Denim codes are transposed into jacquards. Indigo tones, ecru weaves and signs of wear — scratches, tears, fraying — are being reimagined through precise techniques of clipped or floating yarns. Between rusty hues and patinated blues, the tones suggest distressed jeanswear, in which the richness of textures amplifies the aged effect while elevating it with a refined elegance.
Embroidery
Selvedge Embroidery
Embroidery has settled on denim cloth. The stitchwork, in tone-on-tone, threads or sequins, creates patterns that seemingly merge into the material, echoing its blues, grays and, at times, its blacks. This discreet sophistication avoids contrast to better enhance the denim, giving it a precious, upscale appearance without undermining its essence.
Artisanal Designs
In embroidery, a more authentic direction is emerging. Rustic markings in thick yarns, raffia; an artisanal gesture unfolds with a rural, autumnal spirit. Applied onto tulle bases or more unexpected ones such as faux leather, the applications express a simple and raw poetry, reconnecting with ancestral know-how.
Laces
Precious Leavers
Leavers laces are reconnecting with their icons. Chantilly and Cornely assert their identity through the airy transparency of veils or the denser weights of dresses, punctuated at times by glinting metallic threads. Deploying their delicate designs, playing with contrasts of density, and accentuating the precision of the pattern, they embody the timeless strength of lace.
Prints
Bucolic Shirting
Dense yet delicate floral motifs are blossoming across qualities in 100% cotton or 100% viscose. Slightly nostalgic, in understated autumnal tones — khaki, brown, muted brown — these finely rendered, well-balanced compositions offer an alternative to the classic men’s shirt. Elegance combined with natural relaxation, carried by the suppleness of the fabrics, for a look suited to everyday wear.
Indigo Impressions
Another path has emerged around indigo. The denim weave is reinterpreted through print on qualities ranging from tulle or organza to heavier cloths designed for overshirts. Sometimes enhanced with tone-on-tone floral patterns or puff-ink effects, these variations are highlighting the influence of jeanswear even within the decorative sphere.
