Hats: Bridging Tradition and Modernity

Atelier Maison Courtois was founded by Frédéric Sécheux, one of the last remaining master hatters in France. Nestled in a small duplex in the 20th arrondissement of Paris, the workshop serves as a veritable hub for preserving this exceptional craft.

                                                                                                                                    Behind every hat lies a combination of trades: the hatter is tasked with molding the structure of the hat (a physically demanding job traditionally assigned to men), while the milliner (a profession historically associated with women’s hats) adorns the hat with ribbons, feathers, or fabric flowers. This multi-step process is reminiscent of pastry-making, for, according to the experts, ‘a hat is like a cake.’

In the atelier, young artisans reproduce traditional hand techniques, particularly the art of shaping hats on wooden molds. These molds, carved from limewood, are unique: each shape and size has its own dedicated model. The second floor of the workshop is filled with these enigmatic forms, from fascinators to newsboy caps…
While the atelier works with all materials and styles, its true expertise lies in wool and fur felt. In their hands, the felt undergoes stiffening with gum arabic before being steamed. Only at this point are the felts placed on the wooden molds. "Working with a wooden mold gives us a certain flexibility. We can slightly adjust the proportions: enlarge the circumference, soften a crease…" The hat is then placed in an oven to dry and set into the desired shape, followed by the various finishing touches.
Felt hats can also be made using metal presses, a much faster method which is the specialty of the company’s second workshop, located in Honfleur and helmed by Frédéric Sécheux.
Thanks to the diversity of its manufacturing techniques (press, wooden molds, cut-and-sew) and the almost infinite variety of materials and finishes available, the workshop has established itself as a must-visit destination for Made-in-France millinery.
 

                                          When asked “Why choose Made in France?” the workshop’s director is never short of words. "We are the heirs of an exceptional savoir-faire, certified with the EPV label. Our social and environmental standards are exemplary. We are based in the heart of Paris, enabling us to be close to our clients and offer unmatched agility. We have no minimum order requirements. Absolutely anything is possible, everything is customizable. And we are constantly exploring new techniques and approaches to hat-making," he says.
The company’s know-how, combined with its unique expertise in a niche market, continues to attract a steadily growing client base. In addition to producing its own line, Courtois Paris, the workshop collaborates with a range of brands to create custom hats. From prestigious luxury houses to emerging influencers, the team handles diverse requests with passion. "We firmly believe that the hat has a bright future," enthuses Sécheux. We couldn’t agree more.