Season Preview AW 26-27: New Dynasties
The Autumn-Winter 26-27 season emerges against a backdrop of increasing socio-cultural complexity. Rising economic and political instability, combined with urgent ecological and social challenges, continues to impact every level of the fashion industry. In this fragmented landscape, where the global search for identity and belonging intensifies, the season invites us to explore the connections that will shape the future of fashion.
This season unfolds through three forward-looking themes: New Dynasties, Ego-Eco, and Territories of Expression.
This article offers a first look at the key directions of the opening scenario: New Dynasties.
Première Vision |
New Dynasties
For the Autumn-Winter 26-27 season, fashion asserts its individuality and plays with its distinctive codes through a bold, disruptive take on elegance—creating New Dynasties.
Naya El Ahdab - Photo: Chris Vidal Tenomaa - Styling: Tuomas Laitinen - Casting director: Alexandra Sandberg - Casting director assistant: Jahwanna Berglund - Hair & MUA: Miika Kemppainen | Dylan Guillard, www.lacambremodes.be |
References to the past and reflections on current social concerns shape bold styles that blend heritage and innovation. Connections to new technologies and their aesthetic codes are revisited through a retro-futuristic lens, capturing the nostalgia for an idealized technological future that never materialized. In a rebellious mood, creative minds draw from the subversive codes of historical movements and countercultures, reinterpreted with a contemporary twist.
Drawing its expressive strength from Brutalism, the season fosters a dialogue between the monumental and the intricate in creations infused with a radical edge. Controlled execution gives rise to the extraordinary, enhancing the rigor and functionality of constructions.
Elsewhere, a gothic influence emerges through deep blacks, shadowy tones, and metal artistry, with these dark shades revealing texture and craftsmanship as they catch the light.
Monster Flower Sculpture, image credit : Marcin Rusak Studio |
Minimalism and dramatic flair converge in luxurious pieces that sculpt the body and amplify volumes, moving effortlessly between the poetic and the austere, the masculine and the feminine, and the sartorial and the experimental.
Neo-sartorial
This theme steers textile developments toward a new form of restrained opulence. Plains with the perfect density—whether rigid or flexible—offer a heightened sense of classicism, with a focus on structured constructions, impeccable fits, and redefined volumes. Firm suiting fabrics with dense, bouncy handles, heavyweight cottons with compact, structured weaves, and compact yet flexible double-faced cloths all contribute to an elegance shaped by sharp constructions that elevate and reinterpret tailoring archetypes.
Rayana Boulila, www.lacambremodes.be | Première Vision |
In leather, firmness and flexibility strike a subtle balance—shaping generous volumes that are both supple and structured in leather goods and defining radical neo-tailoring silhouettes in apparel.
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Première Vision | AI generated /
Première Vision |
Bold Tailoring meets brutalist metallic accessories and officewear-inspired textile trims, reflecting a new wave of radical, architectural formalwear.
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Première Vision | Première Vision |
Dark & Textured
The New Dynasties theme is defined by the omnipresence of ultra-deep dark tones with dramatic intensity. In leathers and textiles, multi-textured monochromes come alive through subtle surface variations, including opulent, lustrous blacks and faux blacks accented with silvery metallic highlights.
Première Vision | AI generated /
Première Vision | Première Vision |
Amplifying the drama, accessories channel baroque and gothic influences with dark monochromes and a bold, esoteric aura. Stylized botanicals emerge in arabesques and twisted branch motifs.
Première Vision | Première Vision |
In terms of decoration, eerie florals —seemingly blooming from darkness—unfold across textiles, merging classical painting with digital aesthetics. Botanical elements feel almost supernatural, with dark, textured blooms lit by luminous bursts and halos of color, and all-over or placed motifs emerging from dark backgrounds, illuminated by vibrant, artificial chromatic pairings.
Flora Low Coffee Tables 91,
image credit Marcin Rusak Studio | AI generated /Première Vision |
Scorched Aesthetics
This season’s creations reveal freely transgressive reinterpretations of iconic textile and apparel codes. Punk rock-infused denim showcases purposefully distressed surfaces, with stained, burnt, and frayed effects.
Read our article: AW 26-27 Denim Preview – Incandescent Denim
More broadly across textiles, decorations seem to rise from the ashes, as if sketched in charcoal—burnt motifs, abstract forms blending stains and smoky wisps, or drawings with smudged, charcoal-edged outlines. A direction that carries over to accessories.
For the first time this season, Première Vision integrates the Beauty sector into its trend forecasting approach. With the lines between fashion and beauty continuing to blur, the category is experiencing strong growth, fueled by luxury houses investing in and expanding their cosmetic offerings. This momentum reflects a broader societal shift: the central role of care in today’s world.
In beauty, the season’s radical spirit is reflected in a minimalist aesthetic marked by surgical precision. Each active ingredient is micro-dosed for maximum efficacy without excess, and color nuances are meticulously calibrated. Controlled application of textures, ultra-fine pigments for smooth, breathable finishes, and high-precision tools are redefining practices.
Discover the full scope of the season’s trends at Première Vision Paris, taking place 16-18 September 2025 at Paris Nord Villepinte.
