AW 26-27 Decodings: Fabrics
Première Vision highlights the key strengths of the Autumn-Winter 26-27 season by sector and end-use specialty – shirting, tailoring, woolens, casualwear, knitwear, silks, and fabrics dedicated to sports and outdoor.
These proposals, the result of a detailed analysis of swatches submitted by exhibitors and cross-referenced with the trends developed upstream by Première Vision’s teams and partners, provide clear and relevant information for all markets.
Discover a selection of the key trends, unveiled at the September 2025 edition.
Casual
Relaxed Emerized
Sometimes blended with wool or cellulosic fibers, the moleskins, suedes and peach-skins are both supple and firm. Their finely emerised surfaces appear uniform and softened, allowing a glimpse of the density of the neat, refined weaves, lying beneath their light down, that ensure their durability.
Relaxed Fluidity
With their marked diagonals, sharp herringbones and their amplified, crisp and prominent structures, the drills, gabardines and piqués display a weaved rigor, countered by their warm, cosy and rounded hand. The cotton finishes conceal sophisticated techniques, capable of combining homely comfort with a polished look.
Warm Denims
Denim is becoming more refined and adopting the visual codes of drapery. It has embraced faux plains, end-on-end effects, herringbones, fine stripes and even cut velvets that bring sophistication to surfaces and blur indigo with whitish shades… perhaps as a possible alternative to fading ?
Ayyildiz Mblue Fabrics (TR) | Freedom Denim (CN) | Or Bey Tekstil (TR) |
Tailoring
Rounded Density
Lively and dry combed draperies concentrate on intermediate weights. They are fine though compact, and precise in their millimetric weaves and double constructions, promising rounded, protective volumes without bulk, and providing opportunities to play with reversibility, sometimes enhanced by contrasting colors.
Noble Wools
Fluid, smooth and silky fine draperies possess the discreet lustre and quiet simplicity of beautiful objects. Silk or cashmere blends are gently elevating mélanges, chalk stripes, tartans or windowpanes, giving soft yet weighty drape to the great classics of tailoring.
Lanzhou Sanmao - Paishen (CN) | Shandong Ruyi (CN) | Wujiang Dahe Textile (CN) |
Woolens
Raw Authenticity
100%-wool boucle cloths, carded twills and forest plaids are embracing authenticity. They evoke a nature left unaltered, raw and tousled wool. Rustic and straightforward, they are full of candour, comfortable and reassuring.
Compact Felts
Felted, compressed, fulled wools appear in every guise. Sometimes mélanged or blurred, the kabigs and lodens have been fiercely condensed into impenetrable compactness. At other times, cashmere- or alpaca-blended velour wools merge into rounded composites, unified through calendering into smooth surfaces featuring subtle gleams.
Silks
Hybrid Drape
Denser and more matte, silks have entered the tailor’s world, with gabardines and failles featuring pronounced, narrow and precise ribs. Nothing is left to chance in the composition of these new draperies: merino, viscose and recycled polyester are carefully balanced to enrich the silk with their thermal, practical or ecological attributes.
Lacquered Gleams
When silks play with light, anything is possible: lacquered satins, calendered synthetics, glossy coatings or those fleeting, vibrant reflections that micro-cellulosics—cupro, rayon, Tencel™ lyocell or acetate—so masterfully deliver: a shiny matt trompe-l’œil that comes alive with the movement of light, fluttering silks.
Erez Group (TR) | Dongkeuk Textile (KR) |
Knits
Cosy Wools
These brushed cloths, distressed heavy wools, thick flannels, yarn-dyed plaids… one would swear they were wovens; yet they are knits with just enough blocked structure to make coats, and enough body and suppleness to knit us a soft and welcoming winter, sheltered from the frost.
Janggyin Longyang Textile (CN) | Guigou (FR) | Brito Knitting (PT) |
Draping Fleeces
Tightly compacted on the outside, generously plush inside, fleeces are strengthening their insulation and cultivating their double nature. They are fluffy, high-piled or finely brushed, and cosier than ever on the reverse side. On the right side, they have refined their appearance—elegant, silky or dynamic—through wool, sporty synthetic or microfiber blends.
Sarboy Textile (TR) | Ekoten (TR) | Ozen Mensucat (TR) |
Shirting
No-Gender Fluidity
The traditional patterns of men’s shirting are migrating toward the world of light silks. Stripes are losing their strictness, while twills, pongees and satins are adapting to an office wardrobe composed of discreet blues, serious grays or understated browns.
Shirting Knits
In the well-mannered world of formal shirting, knit shirts are creating surprise. Fine, smooth and dense, while perfectly aligned with the codes of classic shirting, these warp knits will bring modernity and flexibility.
Woojoo Global (KR) | Fujian Unitex Technology (CN) | Gülle Tekstil (TR) |
