Last February, the Première Vision Paris show immersed us in a fully creative energy that is clearly steering spring-summer 21 towards new perspectives and powers fashion forward into an optimistic future.
An aesthetic exploration of motion perfectly expresses today’s disruptive societal trends, and was one of the major creative directions revealed by the show.
A turn towards eco-responsibility, a springboard towards the future, curves in various degrees of sinuousness inspire the Spring Summer 21 offer.
Interplays of light accentuate colours and bring out fluctuating shines. Curves marked by intense vibrations intersect and intertwine; while soft, iridescent colours merge, deliberately symbolizing natural elements, especially sky and water. Sanded and waxed accessories in recycled plexiglass imitate mother-of-pearl through an entire range of discreet, milky pales.
The transparency of organza in a range of cold pastels, especially a particular sky blue called « sky earth » in the colour range, blend with cold gold and silver, evoking the soothing lapping of a river bathed in summer sunlight. Another variation on this theme is found in a fabric coated with a responsible and waterless glaze, in deeper and more greenish blue tones, reminiscent of an undulating underwater gleam, perturbed by stranger, more turbulent waves. Warmer harmonies in golden and coppery tones inspire whorls of magical smoke escaping from an active volcano.
Accessories | Jewellery components | VALTER SRL, Italy | Réf : P.2450 71X81 FEL – RESIN ELEMENT | 100% RECICLED PLEXIGLAS | See more
Fabrics | Silkies | Ruffo Coli Tessuti S.r.l., Italy | Réf : 18959.0001.000 – ORGANZA LIQUID STAMPA ANZAI – 18959.0001.000 | 72% POLYESTER 28% SILK | See more
Fabrics | Casual | Juan Poveda SL, Spain | Réf : KARELIA – KARELIA | Other fibres | See more
Fabrics | Prints | ESTAMPARIA TEXTIL ADALBERTO PINTO DA SILVA, Portugal | Réf : P201230-602 – T.ORGANZA BRILHANTE | 100%PES | See more
Moirés take centre stage this S/S 21. Whether worked in longer or shorter curves, they trace precise and technical movements and lend a new sophistication to fabrics. The concentric patterns of the resulting design feature uniquely vibrating colours or gradations of light depending on how they are viewed.
On a velvety base, moiré effects accentuate the preciousness of golden shades. In tone on tone expressions, alternating a wide matt and shiny motion, the pattern emerges with great subtlety.
This subtlety is also found in jacquards, where delicate lurex yarns imitate a hand-drawn line, as if expressing a desire to blend in with the overall decoration.
From time to time, ripples grow more oscillating, more vibrating and colourful, like impatient whirlpools irrepressibly expressing themselves. Accessories with generous and multicoloured curves – almost like a springboard into an optimistic and colourful future – are ready to be placed here and there on the garment, an encouragement to stand out from the crowd.
Fabrics | Casual | Pontoglio spa, Italy | Réf : 729 583 HL – VELVET MOIRE’ IRIODIN | 100%CO | See more
Fabrics | Jacquard | BUCOL, France | Réf : 0184400104001 – Gauffré Lurex | 100% PL | See more
Fabrics | Lace | ILUNA GROUP, Italy | Réf : E0076P2 – E0076P2 | 54%PA 27%VI 17%EA 2%ME | See more
Fabrics | Embroidery | Pariskrta, Fashion embroideries, India | Réf : PSK 3157 – Embroidered Motif| Silk fabric 100% | See more
Fabrics and knits also bring their singularity to the fore though the use of optical illusions.
Fast-paced, electric or winding, waves form, dissipate and trace the frantic rhythm of everyday life through the decoration itself. Geometric, tightly set lace creates a feeling of texture. Zigzags on silk alternate matt and shiny lines for a surprising effect.
Fabrics | Lace | Tess. Colombo A., Italy | Réf : JL7051/135 – PURPLE PLUMERIA | PA EA | See more
Fabrics | Silkies | MARSALA DOKUMA, Turkey | Réf : MJ.00.10.06235 – MJ.00.10.06234 | 29% PES 71% VI | See more
Moving decorations, undulating graduated shines, and moving geometry: S/S 21 fabrics champion their expressive materiality and resolutely encourage us to move forward, like an energetic bounce towards the future.