Bilan produits Accessories The - Accessories - Première Vision Paris
Chic and shock
“Customers are clearer about what they want and go straight to the point” (Effets Passementerie). “They are looking for classic items and are working more and more with our archives” (Conti Wej). We are tempted to say that the race for the latest trend is not really the way of working these days. Rather we are seeing a two-speed fashion scene emerge made up of timeless items that are never out of fashion and ultra-fast fashion inspired by the « see now, buy now” approach. In other words: the chic and the shock. A perfect balance between lasting elegance and a breath of spice and fresh air.
For the “chic” category, exhibitors focused on the simplicity of the design and the quality of the materials: wood rather than plastic, horn, galalith rather than polyester, steel and brass rather than zamak, polyurethane rather than PVC, enamel rather than paint.
For the “shock” category, the trend was for stickers, patches, pins, charms and of course the accessories for attaching (and removing) them at will: brooches, clips, chains, glues and snap hooks.
Seasonal tales
Evanescence: muted shades, smoked pastels, languid patterns, milky transparencies – all the refinements of Art Nouveau.
The technical touch: silicon, microfibre, shiny and scintillating appearances, ribs, hiking accessories, luminous piping: glamorous sportswear is the name of the game.
Relax: ragged labels, rubbed buttons, stone effects, grained leather, imprecise forms, irregular borders, cracking – the charm of imperfection.
© Estro
Cocktail spirit: buttons and buckles like jewels, beads, metallic threads, brooches, stones, iridescent effects on all media, sparkling embroideries, sophisticated exuberance – every day is a party.
© Crisden
Trends by product:
Buttons
The return to a simple and classic design for flat buttons, which play with the qualities of the materials – wood, galalith, horn – and stone-washed vintage finishes.
© ACM
Shank buttons are more decorative. We note a passion for enamel, even for small shirt buttons. The preferred patterns are Indian mandala or acanthus leaf designs.
New: Azga has made its debut at the show with a collection of enamelled and hand-painted buttons and accessories.
© Azga
Leather flowers, for bags and shoes, or for jewellery and clothing. Raffia flowers. Flowers with a snap hook from FEC* Serilabel Di Facchinetti
Customisable jean buttons (Polsan)
Embroidery and transfers
A good season for embroidery which even outplays diamanté at times. Older styles of designs were appreciated, such as floral compositions in satin stitch. Generally, flowers were very popular but the tropical inspiration was also strong: toucans, cacti.
New: oversewn embroidery with a fluffy effect from Eddy Ricami
New: hot fix high relief beads from Hitit Transfer
Functional accessories
Zips are visible and colourful. Enamelled teeth are here to stay but iridescent effects are still a favourite. Nylon zips shine more than ever.
Best-seller: enamelled teeth from Zip Goffredo
© Zip GFD
Our favourite: the coordinated zip from Riri and press fastener from Cobrax.
© Cobrax
Technical accessories have found their place in fashion. We like the technical sliders from UFA and their heat-sensitive accessories, the Power mesh from Shindo, the perforated elastic band that opens with movement, the straps and laces made into jewellery, watch straps and frogging.
Les accessoires techniques ont trouvé leur place dans la mode. On aime les tirettes techniques de Universe Fashion Accessories et ses accessoires thermosensibles, le Power mesh de Shindo, bande élastique ajourée qui s’ouvre dans le mouvement, les sangles et lacets dont on fait des bijoux, bracelets de montre ou brandebourgs.
© Janisset
Jewellery components
This season we are playing with marbles, glass beads with shimmering colour inclusions. But mother-of-pearl is still hugely popular although the situation is starting to stabilise. Pianetta Gemme innovates with millefiori and crushed crystal. Preciosa had great success with its smoky colourful crystals.
New: Pearls on organza with retro designs from Preciosa.
© Preciosa
Note: the beaded effect in textiles is interpreted differently by Eddy Ricami in the form of embroidery and by Junior Hagen in the form of tiny pompoms.
Our favourite: brooches are popular, for men as well as for women (insect brooches are still widespread although some thought the trend was dying down).
Labels and packaging
We want elegance with a little technical touch: a microfibre material, a silicon coating, a rubbery texture. There were a lot of monochrome labels with raised or shiny markings on a matt background. Note: Pseudo-precarious materials (Tyvek at Eurotextile, Kraft paper with a PU coating from AT+T)
Highlight: the technical appearance and embossing from Cadica
Our favourite: the composition in black from Redmark
© Redmark
New: Sotto vuoto – an inlay of lettering in metal that does not pierce the support material, a patent held by FEC*Serilabel Di Frachinetti:
© Fec* Serilabel di Facchinetti
Metallic or plastic accessories
With the boom in handbags, clasps are in great demand and vie with each other for creativity.
Large chains are appreciated and textured effects were popular with visitors. There was also a preference for enamel rather than too-fragile paint.
New: Steel chain from Made For Fashion (more ecological and it gets more attractive with time)
Our favourite: large chain with textured links from Lartigiana Bottoni
New: AT+T have moved away from PVC and are using polyurethane for its lenticulars.
© A.T+T.
Decorations
Patches, pins, stickers, crest patches, embroidery transfers – following own from the crest of last winter, decorations are multiplying. Pop art is the inspiration for Close to Clothes, as is tropical for Junior Hagen.
The favourite thing of bloggers: stickers for smartphones but also for jeans, jackets and leather thanks to a special glue developed by FEC*Serilabel Di Frachinetti
© FEC*Serilabel Di Frachinetti
Note: a lot of frogging and bits in a combination of materials: marine rope, metal, viscose drawstrings, fabric…
Charms for leather goods: is it really the end of the moccasin pompoms? It does not look like it given the varied and abundant offer at the show. Whatever happens, flowers are the stars.
© Katy
Best-seller: Feather flowers from Serena Cecchini Design
Textile Accessories
Accessories from sport are becoming more fashion conscious, with silkier appearances, and finishes that are often metallic and tidier. Ribbing is a success, whether wide or long, for collars, cuffs, button plackets or for jogging pants.
Best-seller: metallic laces from Punto Fibbia
New: the double sided, quilted strap from Idepa
© Idepa
Guilleret braid, small flounces, pleated tulle and fringed braid all illustrate a swimwear theme.
Our favourite: pleated tulle flounces from Ulisse Fashion
© Ulisse Fashion Art Detail
Leather and leather goods
Belts will be larger and laser perforated, or finer and coloured or studded. Nubuck takes over from winter suede. Irregular grain appearances are ideal for casualwear while smooth finishes are destined for elegant wear.
Buckles are often fine and elaborate. A lot of bejewelled buckles with beads and gems.
Our favourite: the jewellery buckles from ISG
© I.S.G.
Best-seller: the C-shaped buckle with beads from Fibel
© Fibel
PREMIERE VISION ACCESSORIES HALL 4