Updating AW20/21 : key take-aways

The Updating survey, conducted in October-November 2019, canvassed selected international buyers to highlight the essential products to inject into your autumn-winter 2020 – 2021 collections now.

Autumn-Winter 20-21 marks a shift towards a new subtlety. This can be seen in the choices of untraditional, elegant, full colours worked with such refinement in decorations and silhouettes. It’s also evident in daringly voluminous silhouettes, where outer-garments are puffy, enveloping and warm, in contrast with fluid and structured pants, skirts and dresses.

Fabrics are both more supple yet structuring, for new looks bridging a dressy and casual vibe.

The eco-responsible commitment has clearly reached the tipping point, with, in particular, an offer of recycled fibres that continues to expand and improve. A growing attention to traceability should be noted too, as well as the approaches specific to leather goods and footwear, in particular vegetable tanning and a search for alternative materials.

3 main silhouette, fabric and decoration directions stand out:

Amplified volume

The season’s volumes are generous, fuller and rounder, in cosy ultra-comfortable cottons. A fashion direction for both city and casual looks.

To see the AW20 / 21 selection of amplified volume from the Marketplace, it’s here!


Coats and outerwear:

  • Chic: full, enveloping coats.
  • Casual: puffy parkas.
  • Sport: large foldable parkas, in recycled and recyclable technical fabrics and fibres.
  • Fashion: full and generous shearlings.


  • Full, textured, structured sweaters.
  • Airy sweaters with puffy yarns and open knits.
  • Foamy and double, round and enveloping.

Tops: focus on the sleeve :

  • Tailored: structured sleeves with epaulettes and balloon shapes.
  • Casual:  puffy, supple, leg-of-mutton sleeves.


  • Long.
  • Asymmetric.
  • Fluid.


Still structured, designed with pleats, or carrot-fit:

  • A bit more voluminous, wider at the bottom.
  • More obviously wide, with culottes.
  • In details: a workwear style with utilitarian, multi-pocketed pants.

Warm suppleness 

Above all, a suppleness and warmth to handles, behaviours and feel. A search for naturalness, especially in compositions, for a “natural beauty”, with noble wools and blends and warmed-up cottons.

Hairy and shearling-style woollens, often recycled

  • Soft and downy broadcloths.
  • Hairy and bouclé mohair woollens.
  • Sheepskin-back woollens and plush-style fake furs.

Wool/silk-blend suitings    

  • More dynamic fine, soft and warm handles.
  • Ultra-sturdy and lightweight fineness.

Eco-friendly cottons

  • Refined and malleable moleskins.
  • Marked twills and diagonals.
  • Softened cottons and denims, washed without being washed out.
  • Wide-ribbed corduroys in organic cotton.

Responsible knits

  • Airy, frothy, lightweight
  • In cut-sewns: chic sport looks with refined polars or fleeces.
  • Stable knits, dense and substantial bi-stretch.

Elegant, subtle, masterful fantasy 

Fantasy that’s a bit less flashy, more low key, yet assertive: colours elaborated in refined associations, especially for classic designs, along with enlarged decorative motifs on dark pigmented grounds.


  • Flora and fauna are mainly expressed with generous flowers and Tachism-style animal patterns, worked in airy macro motifs on dark backgrounds, in less extravagant colourways, in subtle tone-on-tones, like a camouflage treatment of decorative designs.
  • Classics depart from illustrative designs and veer more towards geometry, with checks and houndstooths. These patterns are updated by the use of bright and colourful accents, or by subtler, more studied harmonies.


  • Moiré aspects and an unshowy shine, gasoline shot-looks.
  • Subtle slubs in suitings, finely infiltrated in silkies.
  • Delicately sparkling knits.


  • Delicate and geometric lace.


  • Casual: cottons with small, highly-elaborated weave structures.
  • Tailoring: refined broadcloths, to structure with neat and sharp pleats, for a less classic variation on the women’s suit this season, and a notably shorter skirt.
  • Small dobbies, micro-jacquards and more complex figureds.

To see the AW20 / 21 selection of decors from the Marketplace, it’s here!