After many seasons focused mainly on appearance, womenswear buyers’ are refocusing their priorities on more profound values. Among them? A desire for benevolent, comfortable, eco-responsible fabrics and a need for visible personalization. In actual fact, they both complement each other and fuse. Hairy, warm products are prized for their lightly mad touch. The appealing visuals are also chosen for their softness, as in supple shiny fabrics, and decorations attenuated by modulated colourways.
You can find the these womenswear fabrics, as revealed by the AW 20/21 Best survey, at the Première Vision Marketplace to source online.
Jackets & coats
Fleecy & brushed
Fake fur selections are on the upswing. There’s a rise in plush textiles with an eccentric lamb-like look and feel, lighter bouclettes and sheepskin-like woollens. Wool velours and mohairs are preferred wavy. This appetite for visible and expressive softness gives pride of place to fanciful hairy yarns, slipped into checks and jacquards.
Even in wool, shine is essential and highlights metallic fantasies. The most frequently requested fancy tweeds are enriched with metallic vibrations. And slightly shimmering suitings are gaining ground.
Shepherd’s checks and tartans are preferred with a clever twist. These classic visuals, mainly medium-sized, have a more original look, thanks to their re-imagined colourways, the insertion of fancy yarns and brushings that soften contrasts.
Tops & ensembles
A turn to a new direction: fluidity loses its preferred status. While buyers still like moving, malleable fabrics, their materiality has to be felt. An increase in suiting/silky hybrids, marked diagonals and draping knits with visible structures.
Shine this season drops its cocktail connotation, stepping in instead as a favourite for appealing everyday looks. Buyers like sparkling knits, slightly satiny silks and discreet metallization, most often chosen in soft or fluid versions.
For dresses and tops, the selected knits adopt a sporty accent. An increase in synthetic bi-stretch blends in women’s, and an evolution of fleeces and ribs, where fineness and density give them a more modern look.
Tempted by the mysterious dimension of patterns, buyers focused on motifs blended into the shadows, hide-and-seek graphic plays, uncertain shapes, watercolour dilutions and camouflage effects.
This season flowers are moving away from realism. Requests zeroed in on stylized interpretations. Lace and floral embroideries with a traced outline, sketched and abundant foliage and scattered designs with simplified petals.
In prints and jacquards, the desired density is supplied by the colour of the grounds on which the patterns are spaced. This airiness promotes the readability of patterns, often preferred in medium size and in moderate colourways.
Metallic aspects illuminate this season, where fantasy is dominated by nuance. Emerging as an essential outsider, decorations enriched with precious reflections are broadly popular. Laminated silks, sparkling jacquards, sequined embroideries and copper or gold lace catch everyone’s eye.