The search for high quality, functionality and sustainability is a primordial. Yet, underneath the understated look, fantasy can slip in at any moment. Men’s buyers like wools enlivened by discreet yarn fantasy. In shirtings, a silky spirit infiltrates cottons. For casual or tailored outer pieces, technicality and comfort are elegantly displayed.
You can find the these menswear fabrics, as revealed by the AW 20/21 Best survey, at the Première Vision Marketplace to source online.
Shirts & tops
A strong increase in Lyocell and viscose blends, for increasingly fluid men’s city shirts. The search for mobility and ease is also reflected in the growing demand for bi-stretch products.
The boundaries between menswear and womenswear are blurring. Choices show a preference for silk-influenced shirtings. Discreet satiny finishes and a mercerized-cotton shine are back in demand.
In shirtings, buyers’ choices point to the rising strength of plains. Yet choices eschew uniformity. Colours are dense and deep, and surfaces are livened up by micro textures and weave effects. Seersuckers and piqué knit in new winter versions are attracting notice.
Casual men’s tops seek to provide cosy comfort while breaking free of the same ordinary looks. Familiar checks are preferably warmed up by finishings and colourways. Wool gets the nod when slipped ever so finely into knits and shirt fabrics.
A cosy comfort emerges for menswear. In coat weights, selections are moving towards a softer feel, with bouclettes emerging in checks, generously velvety fabrics, and more supple brushed materials and felted fabrics.
Fantasies are both more abundant and more visually discreet. A heightened demand for authentic visuals with less contrast. Tartan checks are declining, in favour of shepherd’s checks and Prince of Wales in tone-on-tone versions.
In menswear, fabrics’ intrinsic qualities move front and centre. Increased demand for noble fibres is notable for suits and coats. Compact fabrics are valued as a guarantee of technical performance. Cottons are preferred denser and finer, in a move away from a nonchalant approach and into a more elegant realm. Added value is measured by how fabrics feel.
Men’s citywear strikes down the barriers between formal and casual. Among casual fabric specialists, buyers opt for cotton and Lyocell blends with an elegant suppleness. Choices are turning to more mobile wools for more fluid jackets and pants.
Another area where requests converge: discreet shine. It seduces wool suit specialists, where calendared finishes are on the rise. For buyers in the relaxed universe, mercerized treatments supplant worn and washed effects.
A hard turn ahead! Smoothness is no longer the favourite pick. Moving into the spotlight: surfaces enlivened with fine textures, semi-plains with barely-there fantasy, visibly marked diagonals. The search for personalization also relies on subtle differences.