Spring summer 18 fashion directions were brightly expressed in the various forums and fashion conferences at Première Vision Paris.
Here they are presented in five takeaways.
Colour as a banner
Across all market segments, the signalling, fresh simplicity of colour takes the floor. Neat colour on richly textured plains, on fancy weaves. Colour vibrating on fluid fabrics and leathers with silky or plastic reflections. Colour drawn in simple bi- or tri-tones for dazzlingly gay checks, stripes and flowers, generous patterns with unusual flat-tints and contrasts, as well as pleasing artificial, graphic and energetic accessories.
Air and ease
Plays on transparency and tracing-paper layers, minimal-weight products for ample, generous volumes. Carefully elaborated leather or textile openwork, airy weaves on heavier weights, with languid behaviours. Incisions, plays on opacity and space in patterns where grounds are always full of fantasy. Accessories with 3D-printed developments, for shapes promisingly rejuvenated, whether for clothes, footwear or jewellery.
Deceptively fragile surfaces
The promise of exhilarating silhouettes, with complementary aspects across products: on the one hand rusticity is refined in textile and decoration, creating a deceptively fragile look, while in leathers and accessories it retains a raw expressiveness. An illusion of wear in jacquards or embroideries, always clean looking; marked scratches and wrinkles in leather; fraying or damaged aspects in accessories.
Dazzling synthetic nature
An urbanised, masterful and inventive nature. Updated linens elaborated in blends, synthetic coatings, waxes with a papery sound that reveal a magnified and quite sophisticated approach to nature. Foliage, scientific jungles, and technological botanicals stand out. Nature worked in inclusions in buttons and clasps, more-fabulous-than-nature 3D looks, and exceptionally artificial animal patterns in leather.
Street art & crafts influences
Conveying primitive and ethnic notes this season, in a contemporary and lively style, influenced by graffiti and everyday life in the city. Patterns and products with plastic mixes and tie-dye influences, appropriated by techno-sport products, tweeds and embroideries with updated handles and colours. Spruce accessories combine influences and techniques, and leather, now adorned with graphic decoration, straw effects and darkened, slightly shamanic treatments.