Rich in quality and innovation, discover in exlusivity the novelties for Autumn-Winter 20-21 that engender an almost irresistible desire for leather. Three major creative themes will emerge from this edition that was teeming with ideas as well as the notion of sustainable development, which is now at the very heart of tannery operations.
For a number of years now, tanneries have been taking into account ecological constraints and have put in place measures to reduce their impact on the environment. Their efforts are gaining in strength each year, and the show is the ideal occasion for observing the progress they have made. Thus, after a long and laborious process, Tanneries Roux have obtained certification from Leather Working Group. Indeed, they are the first French tannery to obtain this precious label. Similarly, the reptile specialist Italrettili is proud of receiving recognition from ICEC for the traceability of its Molurus python from Vietnam and two species of Indonesian water snake. Of course, all the tanneries respect the REACH standards. Curtidos Badia goes as far as to comply with MRSL regulations, eliminating potentially dangerous substances from the manufacturing process even if they are not present in the finished product. Many tanneries offer a number of articles tanned without the use of metals, with a very similar appearance and technical characteristics to chrome-tanned leathers. Mention should be made of Carisma, Victoria, Alran, Mégisserie Lauret, Conceria Stella, Curtidos Badia and Indutan, for example, who all have undertaken to develop their metal-free ranges further. Others, such as Bonaudo, Tanneries Haas and Deviconcia are about to reveal their ranges of metal-free or chrome-free articles. Italrettili offers metal-free items in Molurus python and water snake, with high UV resistance and an excellent colour-hold. “Clients are starting to accept the constraints of metal-free,” observes our correspondent at Alran. Traceability is also a concern of many tanneries. To achieve this, Tanneries Haas uses laser marking, while Russo di Cassandrino “has eliminated non-traceable materials.” They are all making great efforts to improve their facilities, with the use of solar panels (Faeda) or with a more effective chrome treatment station (Cuirs du Futur). A model in this area, Curtidos Badia is active on all fronts: 70% of its supply of raw hides is local, it works on fresh hides eliminating the use of salt and therefore the use of water to desalt the skins, it recovers the hairs after epilation (with a minimum of sulphur) and these are converted into compost. As for Chiorino Technology, they have created a Green Collection using a number of different materials (bovine full grain and flesh split, lamb leather) with a metal-free tanning process and organic finish using substances taken from vegetables that are unfit for food consumption.
Dipped lamb tanned without the use of metals from Mégisserie Lauret
Three calfskin articles tanned without the use of metal by Conceria Stella
Metal-free lamb for lining from Indutan
To satisfy the desire from creators and the public for tactile and visual sensations, tanneries are adorning the surfaces of their materials with various reliefs. Small grains are added to leathers creating a sort of superficial vibration. Cuirs du Futur takes a stretch lamb leather and transfers onto it a film printed with a textured snakeskin motif to obtain “an article that is less structured and that can even be stretched without being deformed.” Chiorino Technology boasts that its item has been embossed with a caviar grain “that will not disappear on a shoe toe cap, even a pointed one, when the leather is placed under tension on the last.” To offer more “profitable’ items, while retaining the natural appearance of the leather, Russo Di Cassandrino or Russo Di Cassandrino homogenise their surfaces with a discreet embossing. Faeda “prints small grains on very shiny articles”. On a crocodile-embossed calf leather, Bonaudo doubles the effect by adding a barely-perceptible small grain onto the large scales. In tribute to the 1970s, Conceria Superior offers two articles decorated with geometric grains, one horizontal and the other diamond. On a navy-blue crocodile leather, HCP applies a grainy finish that gives the impression droplets are lying on the skin. Other techniques are used to enliven surfaces, such as the cracking of the red finish on the flesh side of a calf leather that had been dyed black by Tanneries Roux. Or the superficial laser cutting-out of a red lamb leather covered with a black finish, by Mégisserie Richard. Or the liquid lamination – reputed to be more resistant – of a small calf leather, dressed in a false metallic quilting, by Bonaudo.
Snakeskin pattern on stretch lamb leather from Cuirs du Futur
Grained shiny item from Faeda
Crocodile with a “droplets” finish from HCP
Lightly grained calfskin from Russo di Cassandrino
Double embossed calf leather from Bonaudo
Calf leather with a cracked finish from Tanneries Roux
Superficial laser cut-out on lamb leather from Mégisserie Richard
Tanneries draw on all of their prowess to produce a range of rather subtle shines. Victoria, for example, takes ingenuity to new heights in order to give depth to a shiny calfskin. Russo di Cassandrino attenuates the shine of its paper-effect lamb leather with the use of cracking, as does Mégisserie Lauret, which uses crumpling to reduce the mirror effect of a metallic lamb leather or Indutan, which “shatters” the glitter of lamb leather by crumpling it in a machine. Tanneries Haas obtain a “vintage” shine with a slightly pearly finish. A number of tanneries also play with the contrast between matt and shine in the same items. Chiorino Technology adds sophistication to a rubbery matt leather used for sneakers, by adding a slight gilding, while Curtidos Badia combine metallisation and pastel colours for a very refined result. Along the same lines as a two-tone effect, Alran uses a roller to place a shiny finish on the tips of the grain of a matt goat leather. The same idea can be seen at Bonaudo on a grained lamb leather. Mégisserie Lauret contrast the shine of a sticky ink, applied using screen-printing, with the matt finish of a lamb suede.
Deep and shiny calf leather from Victoria
Slightly pearly shiny calf leather with a Vintage effect from Tanneries Haas
Rubbery and lightly gilded sneaker leather from Chiorino Technology
Matt and shiny effects on goat leather from Alran
Lamb suede screen-printed with shiny cracks from Mégisserie Lauret
As if seeking to disturb and seduce at the same time, tanneries are using a number of techniques to separate colours. Before fixation, some finishes are worked and stamped to create lighter or blended areas, such as the calfskin items from Tanneries Roux with a lunar or scarab effect; or the calfskin leather from Conceria Stella or the aptly-named Normandie from Conceria Superior, whose palette of blues evoke the uncertain skies of the Atlantic. In addition to the desired pull-up effect, the application of wax to items also has an effect on the colours. This can be seen in the bovine leather from Victoria or the stretch lamb from Cuirs du Futur. With the use of an intense orange colour followed by washing, Italrettili blurs the natural pigmentation of a Karung snake. The same blurred effect is seen on a shearling calfskin from Russo di Cassandrino, giving depth to the leopard pattern. Also, on a hair-on leather, Inducol divides the colour of a slightly shiny lamb leather with double-dyeing and drumming, and Rial 1957 marbles the navy blue of an Icelandic lamb leather with a tie & dye pattern using elastics.
Calf leather with a lunar finish from Tanneries Roux
Grained Calfskin with a stamped finish from Conceria Stella
Hand stamped Normandie calf leather from Conceria Superior
Stretch “waxed” lamb leather from Cuirs du Futur
Shearling tie & dye lamb leather from Rial 1957
Karung dyed and washed by Italrettili
Double-dyed and drummed lamb shearling from Inducol
Shearling small calf leather with a leopard print from Russo di Cassandrino
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