The fashion trends and the colours of the spring summer 21 season are illustrated by an eclectic and inspiring selection of leathers and skins.
SS21 stands out for its clear determination to explore technical and sustainable innovation through the prism of experimentation and creativity. A positive energy that has pushed it to play with materiality, producing textures and appearances that question our perceptions.
Inspired by eco-responsible innovations in the tanning process, a new ultra-luminous colouring is bolder, adding light to pastel colours and acidic brights with a colour intensity that is both exhilarating and joyful.
To offer products that comply with a 360° sustainable life cycle, respectful finishes, biopolymers, water-based formulae and vegetable waxes are being developed to reveal the essence of a singular and living material.
Vegetable-tanned leather is softened and thinned, moving away from its rustic register to become ideal for more sophisticated usages. The naturalness of the material is enhanced with fine finishes, with delicately gleaming waxes, tinted in transparency, or with nuanced pull ups where the technique and the savoir-faire are refined but evident.
Matt finishes are attractive on calf leathers, with their generous and malleable handle. Skins are dense but light as if micro-honeycombed. Calf leather grains are pronounced or very finely buffed, softened crocodile skins have an absorbent matt finish, with rubbery oiled, powdery creamy or mysterious talc-like textures.
Fine lamb leathers take on a more material and firm matt appearance.
Paper finishes are renewed and have gained in density in cracked, permanently crumpled versions.
In accessories, this matt finish is expressed on components with amplified shapes, very rounded rings, eyelets with organic forms that surprise with their volume.
An expert simplicity for leathers that revisit the classic grains and threads of leather goods for more contemporary versions with real reductions of scale. Round micro-grains, rectilinear threads and almost imperceptible cork grains look nearly smooth and glide towards a functional, more technical register.
The check, whether in a tone-on-tone print, a micro-quilting embossing, or a perforation, is very popular.
In contrast, components for leather goods and footwear, snap hooks, metal zips and metal curb chains appear in an XXL format and offer another dimension to the simple and clean lines of functional accessories.
In leather, shine is ever-present but this season it is perfectly moderate.
A fine gleam plays with the movements of light. Matt gradations of mother-of-pearl and iridescent finishes appear alongside muted metallizations with discreetly changeable highlights.
Lacquered or varnished finishes are fluid and molten. They coat the reliefs of skins, while the grains and the crispy embossing reveal a round and voluptuous syrupy layer.
In accessories, components in resin, buckles, rings and clasps are produced in a vast range of opacified transparencies evoking natural resins and amber. Dense, translucent or more crystallized surfaces showcase delicate inclusions.
This season, raw materials express themselves with more sophisticated accents.
Wild textures, purely mineral or vegetal inspirations, give room to developments that are more stylised and falsely rudimentary.
Skins are finely cracked, cut-out, laminated. Abrasions are delicate, the crests of buffed grains take on two-tone contrasting matt/shiny finishes. Grainy appearances, whether blurred or marled in small-format pointillism, adopt a more pictorial style in a vast tachist format.
In accessories, woven panels, and straps in natural fibre macramé reveal contrasts of materials with the addition of light and transparent synthetics, PVC or polyamide yarn, which structure and lighten these new propositions.