Here are the highlights of the last show drawn by the Fabrics exhibitors:
Fabrics look to be circumventing the Chinese health conundrum. While the coronavirus shows up in the attendance curves, bringing down the number of Chinese buyers, it didn’t cast any shadows on the overall business climate in Paris. Some exhibitors described the show’s first two days as “particularly busy”, or even “outstanding.” Catarina Rodriguez, Director of Development at Tintex, reports some 650 visits and 300 sample requests, noting “We had more visitors than we did six months ago.” France’s Payen, back after an eight-year absence, reported a similar degree of interest. This European leader in elastic yarns and fabrics attracted new buyers from the leading export markets (Australia, United States, Israel) to its stand with a range of biodegradable polyamide. Meantime, Penn Italia pointed to a particularly gratifying session with an “unprecedented” interest in its Eco Innovation line, launched three seasons ago. Its caressing “dream shape” nets made from recycled polyamide and polyester are particularly appealing to lingerie and sports brands.
For summer 2021, fashion is viewed, thought-out and experienced in an eco-responsible way. New organic multi-coloured yarns made from natural pigments (Lurdes Sampaio) are a key element. Botanical inks are popping up across the board, in both collections and order books. One colour is obtained from persimmon juice (Morishita). Another is derived from saffron (Olmetex). Dry dyes are very popular, as are natural finishes.
This sustainability goes hand in hand with a new feeling of substance and materiality. Eco-wools (ZDHC, Oeko-tex 100, Gots) are a must this season. They update tailored clothing in an urban vein. They’re particularly liked in machine-washable, crease-resistant, bi-stretch versions, achieved both through weaving and finishing (Marzotto, Colombo, Luigi Ricceri, Landini). “This luxurious and comfortable fabric is a good match for the refined direction that the streetwear and workwear sectors are taking these days,” says Marta Maniero, Marzotto‘s marketing manager. Their new B-Dynamic range responds to this trend and has proved to be a great success. As is the Ink line, featuring a natural wool that imitates a cotton twill. These sustainable lines are growing by 20% each season. At Tessilbiella, a supplier to many of the world’s leading luxury brands, “travel suiting”, designed to be chic and practical, “is growing by 30% this season with increasingly lightweight and naturally stretch wools,” says Paola Fileppo.
Technological features and lightness also win out in the Sport & Tech sector. “Buyers are looking for featherweight products with intelligent properties,” noted Lorenzo Fruet from Lamintess. Among the most characteristic items are breathable and water-repellent nylon voiles weighing only 45 grams per square metre. Impresa Tessile reports similar results for its ultra-light fabrics with a slightly wrinkled look, as does South Korea’s Taipyung Textile, which embellishes its airy fabrics with reptile prints. Proving that practicality and responsibility are also synonymous with amped-up desirability.