Fabrics benefit from a fresh creative élan
Textile markets are the very image of next winter’s fabrics: shifting, surprising … and everything in motion! Current macroeconomic changes are reshuffling the cards. “On the one hand, the world market is more global and, on the other, it’s becoming more specific, with a profusion of niche products. Today, everything can coexist, demands are eclectic. Fashion fiddles to its own tune, with sometimes improbable chords,” says Romain Lescroart, President of Sophie Halette. And this French maker of tulle and lace knows the score. Preciousness and technicality attract the daring. Its unique plasticizing process, based on inserting a plastic thread in the heart of a vintage pattern, has been a great success.
Buyers reported feeling a rush of “curiosity” and “creative drive” this season. “They are hungry for novelties and innovations,” says Miroglio Textile, which is vigorously developing its digital printing. “They’re daring new things,” says Jean-Christophe Dutel, head of Dutel, holding in his hand a fancy cut-yarn fabric. To his thinking, these proactive attitudes confirm the winds of recovery being felt for several months now. “Japan, South Korea and the European market are getting stronger. And China is moving forward.” In the aisles, the strengthened presence of UK buyers was emphasized. “Brexit? A non-issue,” says Sandra Ek, a sales manager at Liberty. She described the market as still “stable”, “without trade fluctuations” and noted figures were slightly up thanks to the emergence of new printed qualities such as silk and velvet.
At the show, unique know-hows are particularly sought-out. “New foreign buyers come for our advanced silk mousseline know-how,” said Eric Sauvage at Sfate & Combier. This lightweight-fabrics expert, in business since 1850, indicated a “good increase” in the company’s turnover, supported in particular by growth in the American market. A buoyant market was also reported by Velcorex, a specialist in velvet and sportswear since 1825. “Velvet, especially cords, are back in force. Brands are looking for our expertise in weaving and finishing, which promise an incomparable drape and handle. We expect sales to increase 25% to 30% this winter. Our stand has been constantly busy!” says Karine Pallotto, Product Manager.
The upscaling of collections continues: “Designers head right to our finest qualities, like this double-faced cashmere suiting that’s waterproof – so you can sing in the rain!” says Elena Comunian, marketing director of Italy’s Lanificio F.lli Cerruti. At Menchi Tessuti, sometimes less costly qualities are used thanks to their lavish handles: “These camel hair fabrics look like sable fur,” says Kristina Reinfeld. Trompe l’oeil textiles also catch the eye, as evidenced by the success of a responsible leather-imitation textile from Japan’s Toray Industrie. It won the 2018 PV Award in the Fashion Smart Creation category
PREMIÈRE VISION FABRICS, HALL 5&6