Continuing tradition, embracing modernity… in the field of ornamentation, creative studios update traditional techniques and know-hows season after season, taking a novel approach to both substance and form. Here, a detailed look at three exhibitors who demonstrate that, when it comes to fabric details, the devil is in the details.
Whether beaded or sequinned, minimalist or extravagant, geometric or abstract, embellishments for next season reveal contrast and personality, a cross of tradition and modernity, elegance and a hint of extravagance.
At England’s Dammann Brown, a marriage of past and future lies at the very heart of the new collection of ornaments, inspired by the research of American textile artist Anni Albers – whose work is currently on view at London’s Tate Modern.
The collection also draws on the crucial transition period when the creative blossoming of the late 19th-century Arts & Crafts movement gave way to the modern, intentionally geometric syntax of the 1920s Bauhaus movement. The collection resulting from these complex historical inspirations is decidedly modern, combining hand-spun yarns, geometric patterns, Lurex yarns and beaded and sequinned inserts in unconventional yet refined juxtapositions of aspects and textures.
An increased focus on textures marked by a sober and minimalist elegance is also a hallmark of the new collection from English studio Kate Lewis.
Here, a passion for embroidery and traditional techniques combines with a relentless quest for new visuals and techniques. Ultra-classic bugle beads are modernised by colourful yarns, and sequins feature broken contours to gain new texture and substance.
The hunt for novel ways to use ancestral techniques is also a key aspect of the lush creative universe at Leong Ong’s Pool 28 studio, which freely appropriates all kinds of techniques and materials – beads, sequins, embroidery, even leather and chiffon appliqués – with a pronounced taste for metallic effects and reflections. For this fashion designer won over by ornamentation, trends for next season include geometric designs crossed with ethnic influences and contrasting registers and codes, from discreet little flowers to bold graphic patterns inspired by cartoons. Particularly sensitive to the influence of sports and technology across the fashion universe, this creative American designer is well placed to confirm the deep connection between tradition and innovation. A connection which, season after season, continues to expand the field of these artistic textile details that make such a subtle difference.
While waiting to meet these embellishment specialists at the show from 12 to 14 February, check out the complete list of exhibitors at Première Vision Designs =>