Pact and impact
The repercussions of the “Fashion Pact” signed on the eve of the G20 meeting were felt across the accessories show: everyone wants to comply with the commitments of the labels who have signed up to it.
But this has not stopped fashion from running its course.
Some are convinced that tastes can be maximalist while still having a minimalist environmental impact, so are tempted by baroque exuberance.
In contrast, a measured simplicity attracts designers keen not to go overboard, but sensitive to textures, attentive to the perfection of an exceedingly simple design that may be discreet but is no less demanding for it.
Between these two extremes, the magic of technology continues to make itself felt, particularly when it comes with fascinating colours and agreeable softness. Some materials appear to be so unreal that we forget everything, especially when they also perform well.
The season’s inspirations
Gracious curves and entangled arabesques.
Complex ironwork and embellished finishes.
Utilitarian and with signage.
As alarm grows about the waste accumulating in the environment, fuzzy paper, biodegradable plastics and compostable accessories show that the ability to disappear is the epitome of elegance.
When metal becomes web-like lace or a hollow tube, when feathers fan their tails, when fur becomes openwork – accessories enjoy growing in volume without gaining weight.
Ginseng leaves, inclusions of grains, small flowers and grasses, but also plant-based dyes, make up the regime of a fashion sector that is passionately embracing the plant world.
Marbling, hammering, smeared colours, irregular compositions, veiny wood – so many unique items that are all the more precious for it.
Trends by category
Animal-free, zero plastic, entirely recycled, 100% natural – buttons show off their eco credentials right down to their ultra-simple design. Round and flat, or slightly curved, they bear the colours of the materials they’re made from, fragments of stone, mother-of-pearl, plant inclusion.
Embroidery and transfers
Cannetille embroidery, crest patches, animal subjects and imaginary heraldry are disrupting the traditions from which they are inspired, combining humour and grandiloquence in gilded, richly-coloured patterns and high-relief. Velvet effects, in embroidery or flocking are still the stars.
The success of the soutache confirms the popularity of inspirations from the parade ground.
In terms of costume embroidery, there is a split between soberly-coloured abstract geometry and luxuriant motifs inspired by an abundant and generous nature, full of multicoloured birds and flowers.
Functional accessories take their inspiration from workwear, and even survival gear. Precise systems, firmly-clipped buckles with clean edges, and lustrous, tight webbing inspire confidence.
Padded jackets continue to reign supreme from Cinelli Piume. Padding manufacturers are multiplying their solutions from recycled down to natural stuffing using non-woven materials, etc.
EMR Zipper Accessory
Zips are full of fantasy: the shapes of the tapes, fringed braids, sparkly coatings, contrasting colours…
There is less enthusiasm for crystals and anything overly shiny. We prefer the tiny sparkle of micro-faceted metal. Richly coloured marble stones take on irregular shapes. A penchant for a matt finish emerges with beads that are opaque or veiled with fabric. Open-work metal leaves or hammered vegetal shapes create inviting contemporary jewellery.
Labels, tags and Packaging
Everybody wants environmentally friendly ones but…there are “buts”. Recycled is more expensive than brand new and vegan materials are more expensive than leather. And certifications increase the price further. Plus, the optical bench is not an option as PLA does not support steaming… In short, the image of the label and the medium used for this image cannot be improvised. Packaging manufacturers are almost becoming coaches in eco-design.
Plastic or metallic accessories
Natural appearances are popular. Buckles, rings and snap hooks are covered with a thick matt lacquer that resembles leather sheathing. Metal can also take on the appearance of wood for articles engraved like basketwork or bundles of twigs.
Composites made from crushed mother-of-pearl, chopped wood, rice bran, bits of straw, etc., had a lot of success
Fluffy pompoms, embroidered plumes, and joyful flowers enliven winter, without forgetting their ecological credentials!
The season has gone crazy for drawstring bags from Pajaro: attached to waistbands, hanging from a snap hook on a larger bag… these tiny bags are trying to ride on the wave of the resurgent waist pack. Snap-hooks, rings and hooks are used to attach them.
Furriers, in turn, multiply the production of charming accessories with the appearance of comforters or the soft toys of childhood from Mood Couture. But also braids, bands and decorative yokes in a blend of materials.
Digital printing holds all the cards: it can be adapted to limited production runs, is fast, precise and also uses less water and inks. Which means unlimited customisation for textile accessories.
Ribs tend towards jacquard for personalization. A little touch of lamé gives glamour to a sportswear accessory.
Unsurprisingly, laces are and will remain a must for a fashion world dedicated to sneakers. Some try to draw attention to eyelets and hooks, sparkling with crystals but they can’t steal the spotlight from the laces.
They are innovating
Serilabel: “We have introduced an NFC chip into our micro-injections and developed a super-adhesive for all media.”
Visa: “Our tiny vials carved directly from natural crystals are unique objects.”
Barig: “Using ink-jet technology, we can print on fake fur in high-definition using the customer’s motif, with a minimum order of 5 metres.”
PMP: “We collect old hangers so as not to have to make more of them, thanks to an agreement signed with our client labels.”
Cadica: “Recyclable, recycled, eco-designed, biodegradable, composable, upcycled…we have plenty of ecological solutions to help our clients create their projects as committed labels.”
Bertheas: “Our new ‘Stretch control” is a dynamic elastic band that cushions movement without compression, ideal for sports bras.
Dienpi: “We are launching a new paper made from fabrics, cotton of course, but also wool and cashmere.”