The accessory: An object of desire
At the leading Accessories show, Paris is a moveable feast and the accessory goes to great lengths to delight and enchant us.
It shines, or better still it sparkles mysteriously, forcing us to stop for a moment to truly appreciate it.
It takes up space. It spreads out in length, width and height: the third dimension is its kingdom, and particularly so in the era of 3D printing.
And it is welcoming. It is soft in rubber. Caressing in velvet, feathers and fur. It multiplies positive messages, the opulence of golds and crystals, the calm nonchalance of decoloured, fringed, uneven effects, the carefree naivety of flowers, insects and all that buzz and flutter in an eternal spring. An object of desire, accessories are a feast for the senses.
Whether in a Venetian palace or a Scottish manor, accessories are living the high life. Arts and Crafts designs are rich and sinuous but with clean contours. Heraldic themes appear on engraved buttons and especially on gold embroidered crests, which are making a spectacular comeback. Velvets and brocades complete this gallery, where modern processes such as the use of silicon or 3D, laser and inkjet printing bring an additional touch of magic.
© Hand & Lock © Bottonificio Bap
Winter exoticism and constructivism
Stripes, triangles, circles – simple figures are infinite, in ethnic undertones and constructivist musings. There is nothing rigid in this geometry, which lets the material shine with its little irregularities, enamel, painting, weaving, jacquard, embroidery or intarsia.
© Dipama Italia © Seab
Metal and crystals throw out sparks, points are sharpened, mirror-like gold covering everything with its smooth, polished surface: leather, paper, elastic bands, lace. Light streams out, surging from the dark depths in tight and steely stud patterns. Sometimes animals are evoked, with coloured stones sparkling like eyes, sequined big cats appearing as placed designs, snakes coiling around belts and jewellery. Baroque, excessive, troubling and sumptuous.
© Hitit Transfer
Old-style crests are reworked,
Flowers, in all materials and all styles,
Colour gradient effects – sprays, tie-and-dye, faded…
Smooth, mirror-like surfaces,
Velvety textures: flock, bristling embroidery and of course, velvets themselves.
Trends by product
Back to the future: emblem buttons in engraved metal evoke the treasures of yore.
© Crépin Petit
More modest, faded, marbled, buffed and scratched buttons in layers of various colours seem to have travelled through time.
Gemstone buttons in all colours, are firm favourites.
© Crépin Petit
But velvet buttons and rubber-coated buttons are hot on their heels.
© Crépin Petit
New: a precise and effective system for covering buttons with leather or fabric, created by YKK.
For greater flexibility, embroidery is hot-stamped. Embroidered patches are oversize, notably from Luca Cuccolini for floral patterns or animal heads. At Tessilgraf, in contrast, they offer embroidery like a signature, fine, clean and with no trace of the glue.
Gilded embroidery is literally everywhere. Not only in classic formats but also in geometric, ethnic or playful patterns. Velvet embroidery, described as “lawn” by Wig Korea or “brush” from Seab, is also gaining favour.
© Wig Korea
For embroidery threads, ecological principles mean cotton is in demand. But when it is thought to be too matt, viscose is preferred over synthetics.
Zips shine to such an extent that it looks as though they are lit up. At TH Zipper, effects are created by the luminescence of holograms and thermochromic ink.
Laces are a favourite accessory for customization. Shimada Shoji produces laces where the name can be written in jacquard even on the tip. Wide, flat laces in tagliatelle weaves can be easily in excess of 10mm wide. Multicolour and irregular tweed effects are particularly popular.
Straps are silky, shiny and soft, often stripy in fresh and bright colours, often hot-stamped for decorative embossing.
There are new items in filling. Wool wadding puts forward its ecological arguments over its synthetic rivals. At Peg, traceability is guaranteed along the supply chain as French sheep are used. Thindown presents a non-woven duvet: a natural insulator, it is very effective and as easy to use as wadding.
Labels and packaging
The folly of the season comes from upside-down jacquard labels, with visible floated threads. Their spongy, blurred appearance fits perfectly with the winter themes.
Menswear is also given special attention, with customised collar stays slipped into cardboard pouches, spare buttons attractively encased in tracing paper, velvet braid and lamés that don’t scratch – because the masculine market likes shiny things but has sensitive skin!
For labels, we vary the materials, stone paper, hemp, cork, cotton paper and we dare to adopt unusual combinations for a joyful and creative recycling.
© Etiquetas Graneros
New: the 3D printed label from Cadicagroup.
Metallic or plastic articles
A spotlight on metal finishes, from the ultra-shiny to the brushed matt: colour gradients from Fixo or two-tone from Crisden Belts Buttons & Bijoux, darkened metal, rusty, grinded, and in contrast with the extreme shine of gold and polished silver, there is an increasing presence of iridescent effects.
A number of C-shaped buckles, particularly from Fibel. We also find complete kits for making belts, with coordinated buckle, loops and corners: Mercuri Moda attaches the buckle and the loop with a little chain.
© Mercuri Moda
New: carved wooden chains from Lampa.
Decorations and jewellery accessories
Decorations are expanding, they are popular when they are large, ample and voluminous: great folded petals in gilded plastic from Moltec.
This is the season for iridescent beads, studded, inlaid, on the edges of buttons, as the decoration on frogging, braids and of course for jewellery.
Fur is fun: pompoms, little characters, flowers, bright, milky or acidic balls of colour – so many cute and small accessories to hang pretty much anywhere.
Studding renews with the rock star spirit, using super-shiny sharp studs in silvery metal and crystals.
Gemstones and two-tone crystals look like eyes and generate intriguing reflections. They contrast with matt stones that have been buffed, filed and dimmed, as if they had been softened by the patina of time.
© Crépin Petit
Textile accessories are the stars of the season, firstly with the bold return of embroidered, gilded crests, playing with ancient and modern appearances. Lenticular plastics, micro-injections and silicon combine with royal motifs and heraldic symbols.
Material contrasts are also the concern of braid and fringes: woollens pair with plastics, fur with tulle, bourrette silk with chenille, in off-beat weavings and composite tweeds.
There is a lot of heat-stamping for embossed markings and other 3D designs, as well as plated or silver effects. The challenge with these decorations on elastic bands is to resist stretching without losing their smooth and shiny appearance: achieved with success by Rifra Nastri and Fashion Tex in particular.
A minor camouflage theme is traversing the season, with sequins, velvets and lamé.
A favourite: leaving the threads of jacquards to fall as long, sparse hairs.
Loaded, opulent and gaudy trimmings complement the crest patches embroidered in a military parade style.
New: knitted uppers from Eddy Ricami, for sneakers of course, but also for heeled boots.
© Eddy Ricami
PREMIERE VISION ACCESSORIES HALL 4