New values for a changing world
Everything is changing, fashion is facing a radical shake-up of its values, and the products on offer are adapting to these new demands.
Once very much criticised, imitations have earned their stripes thanks to bio-sourced plastics, vegan materials and even synthetic stones, which are now described as cultured gems.
At the same time, the purely functional is gaining in elegance: straps, cords, elastics, reflective strips and safely buckles have the pared-back beauty of useful items.
On the aesthetic side, accessories have a hard task: how can they dazzle people who are captivated by screens? The solution is to play with textures (relief, picots, rubbery feels), or multiply changing, moving, iridescent or luminescent effects – the key is to surprise and intrigue!
Ecological certification :
The new noble materials will be those that are ecological, whether they are bio-sourced, biodegradable, recycled or recyclable.
Corn starch (Red Button), 100% cellulose imitation leather (SC Print), bioplastic (Disboton) etc.
Glam rock :
There’s a certain biker vibe to accessories (in homage to Johnny Hallyday?): Stars, roses, skulls, animal motifs and hearts are prevalent in transfers and embroideries.
Embracing the 80s/90s retro trend, streetwear makes a comeback.
Fascinating transparencies! Of course, there is the crystalline perfection of regularly faceted materials, but the season seems to be preferring more disrupted transparencies, with particles, inclusions or precipitations.
Waterproof strips, high-vis supplies (neon, reflective), sports accessories, strong cords and straps, anti-theft padlocks – they all have the supreme justification of being useful and no-one can accuse them of futility!
Trends by category:
The metal button is classic? Not this season, where it takes on simple and modern shapes. There was also a trend for transparent buttons with inclusions.
Similarly, we like the strange effect that move with the light, such as the pearly Chinese-ball buttons from Bielleci.
Embroidery remains a popular decoration, indication of a certain level of luxury, but can adapt to all styles, whether classic or rebel. Mechanical or manual, it will be in high-relief.
While cannetille embroidery vies with beaded (Sama) or crystal (AMB) embroidery in a show-off style, the embroidered caps from Moover are right in the streetwear trend.
Accessories from the worlds of sport and work wear are the most popular: coated zips elegantly enhanced with a polyurethane strip are not at all waterproof but it is the style that matters.
Staying with zips, leather goods have a penchant for large metal zips with converging double sliders for padlocks (Ska). Note that there is a general trend to play with the teeth of the zip.
Snap hooks have become an essential and are embellished for a fashion world that wants the freedom to attach what it wants where it wants.
Resin snap hook
New materials such as the high-tech ceramic from Gilardy or gems in siamite from Visa attracted interest.
For gems and crystals, the balance seems to be leaning towards opalescent or milky hues, and colours with a dash of grey. Matt is popular but very shiny crystals are also still in vogue, providing they are of modest dimensions.
For plastic components, colour gradients and two-tone accessories remain a safe bet.
Open structures are very appreciated, particularly for findings.
Labels, tags and Packaging
Packaging is looking for zero-impact solutions, such as paper shopping bags for carrying bread from SC Print. Similarly, Tyvek, which is both light, soft and resistant, was of definite interest.
For labels and tags, the technical aspect is still popular: silicon badges, micro-injection, embossed synthetics. Either the produce is high-vis (neon, reflective), or in contrast there is intriguing discretion (transparency, tone-on-tone relief, elusive changing effects).
Stamping and embossing are always well appreciated, but the challenge is to maintain the texture over time. Emmetex has refined a technique of long-lasting stamping on imitation leather. Texcart has strengthened its textured supple labels with foam.
Very high-definition jacquard labels are still on trend, and have succeeded in renewing themselves despite the invasion of high-tech appearances.
Colour gradient on a jacquard label
Plastic or metallic accessories
Let’s rethink metal! Today it is accessible in small production runs and can be light and more fun. Metal is also repeatedly recyclable and its getting its revenge on plastic, although it has yet to take its crown. While metal explores all the nuances of its natural colours, without electroplating, plastic shines in large opaque or transparent accessories with a 1960s vibe.
1960’s inspired plastic pastel chains…
… Or metal chains in eroded hues?
Transfers, embroidery, patches, stickers… They delight fans of “do it yourself”. Patches are still popular: after the trend for toucans and cacti, now it is the turn of the ibid, Japanese heron and pink flamingo. Similarly, animal head embroideries are still centre stage, and can take on imposing formats such as the entire back of a jacket, for example.
In contrast with the rather classic fabric flowers, plastic flowers are proving attractive for their fun, modern appearance and because they are less fragile!
Animal head embroidery
High-frequency motif on mesh
Bag & Shoe components
Panels for bags and luggage play with the optical illusions of repetitive weavings, and the transparency of openwork or perforated materials, as well as iridescent plastics or with inclusions.
Accessories for sneakers: studs, crystals, strips, buckles and of course, laces, are the essentials.
Pre-made uppers are also popular.
The technical look of straps and buckles from work wear are popular on men’s belts.
Woven panels in metallic leather
Raffia is everywhere in fringes, weaves or frills Very raw, or artificial and coloured, its either one or the other.
Metallics are still popular but the preference is for gold plated or lamé effects.
Similarly, elasticity is still in vogue for a fashion that is seeking comfort in movement.
Ribbing is a star at the moment, in demand everywhere including on shoes. It will be neon, or lamé, or a personalised jacquard.
Glittery thread is also a success this season.
They are innovating:
Gilardy: “I am the first to use high-tech ceramics for jewellery. This material requires very specific skills and I have developed my own tools to work with it.”
Emmetex: “We offer customised labels with hand-embroidered beads”.
Binder: “Our new chain in brass-plated aluminium is much lighter than solid brass but stronger than hollow metal.”
Disboton: “We are presenting accessories made from bio-sourced and biodegradable plastics, based on cellulose, corn, sugar cane and other plants.”
Sab: “We have a new zip with two-tone bevelled teeth”.
Estro: “We have worked with zip teeth in the shape of stars, in 3D, and more.”
Erode: “We have the tools to supply metal accessories without a minimum order and work on brass that is up to 0.5mm thick.
Completex: “We are being asked for knitted cuffs with a hole for the thumb”.
Visa: “We have the exclusive contract in Europe for siamite (silica + aluminium + magnesium), a material that is made in Thailand and comparable to quartz, that we offer in more than 500 colours and all sizes.