Déborah neuberg, Knotting the Tie

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Portrait of Déborah Neuberg. Photo credit: Maud Bernos.
The first encounter took place two years ago in the hall of Maison d’Exceptions. Déborah Neuberg, founder of menswear brand De Bonne Facture, discovered the unique silks of Okujun workshops. “Certain materials felt profoundly modern, though they were produced with ancient techniques.”
The idea of a collaboration grew over the next few months. Déborah took advantage of a layover in Japan to visit the city of Yuki, the site of the Okujun workshops. There, the Okujun family works closely with others in the region: spinners, weavers, dyers and finishers.
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Déborah worked her way up the chain before making a choice, based on the minimum size needed for the bias cut used in high quality tie production. Thus unable to use the fabrics dedicated to kimonos, the young woman drew from the more contemporary materials that Okujun had been specially developing for the high-end ready-to-wear market.
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From this collaboration came a limited edition of six silk ties, two in each selected material. These accessories were presented on February 5, 2015 in the Tokyo concept store Bloom and Branch. That evening, De Bonne Facture retraced their steps. On the wall were their illustrations: the steps of production were drawn in tableaux from raw material to finished product. In the room were both members of the Okujun family and partners of De Bonne Facture, including the director of the Savoyard workshop that produced the ties.
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The event was also an occasion to present the Spring/Summer 2015 collection for De Bonne Facture. It was the fourth such collection, which together operate as a library that regularly revisits the essentials of the male wardrobe in authentic materials with exquisite finishings.
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Photo Credits: De Bonne Facture