AW 20-21: Portrait of a season

In an era of uncertainty, fashion is looking for a way forward by rising to a higher plane. It’s a time for dreams and mystery, as well as a firm desire to break free of the virtual world, by reconnecting with what is essential: nature and our own bodies. A closer look with Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision Fashion Director

“In a world that’s become so incredibly virtual, the season also seeks to reconnect us with nature and our own bodies.”

How to spring forward? That is undoubtedly THE question transforming the fashion world at the start of the new decade. We’re stepping into an era of uncertainty, in a time when fashion has served as a target for numerous criticisms – for its superficiality, its excess, its pollution… In answer to this, both the Première Vision manufacturers and the brands are evolving their thinking in terms of eco-responsibility, while the creative side of the industry is choosing to soar to a higher plane. To rise above reality, to offer a subtle and sensitive vision. You can feel this in the image for our promotional campaign: that need to take a deep breath, a real desire to embrace dreams, fantasy and mystery.

In a world that’s become so incredibly virtual, the season also seeks to reconnect us with nature and our own bodies. After the 80s and 90s heralded unisex, followed by the years between 2000 and 2015 and the triumph of “no gender”, the time has come for “gender fluid”. Now we can be everything at once. And just as the body is fluid and agile, the garment must work in unison with it. All of this re-energizes creativity, striking down traditional barriers regarding proportion, body type and silhouette. After the cult of the community and collaboration, what’s once again become essential is the relationship with the body, in all its singularity and allure. And as in every season, fashion metabolises these underlying societal shifts, turning them into powerful trends that are already most certainly taking shape.

Luciano_Movio_Installazioni_Oasi di Relax

© Luciano Movio

A return to fantasy

A need to display and/or conceal ourselves is still the same, but now adapts to the contours of the times and changes form. If a low-profile approach once went hand in hand with the grey walls of the city, now it relies on the fantasy of colour to blend in with the shimmering effects of our screens. We lose ourselves in a prism of colours, and the season heralds the new power of decoration and prints. We no longer disguise ourselves in grey but in chameleon tones…

Natural palettes

We may be diving into autumn-winter, colours nonetheless reflect a true sense of joy. Make way for pigmented, bright, dense and complementary tones. The time is ripe for tonal variations, for the softness of a monochrome of pinkish tones – including masculine shades, given the no-gender influence. This palette is combined with mysterious dark shades that leave greys behind to salute the hybrid colours of nature: warm browns, harsh barks and artificial khakis. This season sees the consecration of deep and subtle colours.

Visionary fantasy

In this atmosphere of mystery, fashion is lit up by strange gleams, playing with metallics and the most experimental materials. Like futuristic research and experiments, palettes and textures take on the colours of tomorrow’s world. A world maybe without looms, where materials could come from proteins or self-generated components, all while totally respecting the planet. And if the word transparency is losing ground in the wardrobe, it is more important than ever in terms of understanding products and a desire for traceability. Transparency now conveys ethical values, the protection of nature and our environment. A way of thinking and building the world of tomorrow.

Volume and feather-weights

New volumes must transcend materiality. The time has come for thickness and lightness, a blend of suppleness and density, a fluidity more akin to an oily texture than a watery one. We need a real feel, thickness, substance. The time for layering is also over. We rediscover a taste for functionality with unique and strong pieces, the pleasure of fantasy and a sensual delight in wearing them!

For more decodings of the Autumn-Winter 20-21 trends, make the most of the show in September by exploring:
• The 12 fashion forums, where the most inspiring materials of the season are presented.
• The film of inspiration
• Our fashion seminars
• The Première Vision colour range
• And throughout the year on our fashion section