Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision Fashion Director.
Throwing off the weight of reiterated designs and an attachment to the past to open the door to new, individual and collaborative worlds. That in a nutshell is the idea behind spring summer 2020. A radical, uncompromising message, but a happy and generous one too.
How would you define the tone of the next season?
This season is committed, just like our promotional campaign, which features a character with open arms, like a tree or an arrow stretched towards the sky, towards tomorrow. This commitment permeates all fields: eco-responsibility, an updated aesthetic, a need for more rational and intelligent consumption. But there’s also diversity and fantasy, a banner of non-conformity, a nonclassic approach, and open mindedness.
Are we at the end of bland fashions and fashion by committee?
For decades, fashion has tried to smooth imperfection and impose very narrow and often exclusionary standards of beauty. Today it’s opening to a new and a really necessary collaboration with people, moving closer to their reality and their diversity. It’s demonstrating it’s not afraid to step outside its framework and showing a willingness to spill over, to disturb. We’re not afraid to play around with stuff that’s bizarre, dubious aesthetics, disconcerting harmonies, borderline subjects, unconventional volumes, and distinct physiques.
How, specifically, is this expressed?
We can derive four main trends. First, lightened fabrics and materials, which enhance freedom of motion and comfort, but also symbolise our determination to move on from the weight of the past. Versatile materials let you work close to the body – one that fits the norm or not – and sculpt the silhouette you want, whether it’s idealised or quite sensible. The permeability of inspirations speaks to a wealth of discussions, a desire for tolerance and a curiosity about different cultures, with successful and aesthetically appealing hybrid forms. And lastly, we are spotlighting new strong and surprising colours, harmonies where red opens new directions and leads to vibrancies that are strange, luminous and grating. The season makes a clear break with timidity and everything that’s nondescript.
Does this signify something of a revolution?
We’re not in a transition phase, we’re really at the start of something. We’re entering a new era, stepping into a territory we’ve been laying the ground for over several years, and that will be fully expressed in the future. More than ever, fashion is playing a significant role in conveying society’s strong messages. Fashion is asserting tolerance and humour, even a kind of mad folly. All this brings hope for a world that, far from shrinking, is growing richer and more generous.
> At the February show, enjoy Première Vision’s insightful trend decodings across 12 fashion forums displaying a selection of the season’s most inspiring materials, along with our inspirational films, fashion seminars, colour range… and more throughout the year in the fashion section.