A joyous, exuberant energy galvanises spring summer 20.
Patterns boast freely drawn lines or brush strokes, scales are big, grounds are light, even translucent, and colours as sparkling as they are experimental! Decoration for everyday is refocused on tops, dresses and pants. Evening fantasies have calmer graphics, and tend to visual softness and tactile effects. Surfaces are evenly illuminated, adorned with iridescent reflections.
Flowers for spring summer 20 aren’t playing in a dainty register! They’re loud and colourful, drawn with large, worked-up, overflowing and excessive strokes, or striking in forceful flat-tint versions. Familiar flowers, garden and market flowers, armfuls of pansies, anemones, daisies and ox-eye daisies generously swirl and bloom on colourful, fluid or transparent grounds. In jacquards highlighted with fluorescent accents, they readily veer to an artificial look; and in laces, they sting! The season’s flowers are expressed equally well and strongly in pop, bicolour or tricolour versions. In more cottony versions, they’re cut, cut-out, and printed in neat flat planes; embroidered in serial rhythms; they trace out graphic and full guipure, and smart-looking eyelet embroideries.
Patterns drawn in felt, paintbrush and brush steer clear of clichés when interpreting ethnic codes. Supple, hand-painted geometries are just as inspired by boubous, voodoo motifs and a Tiki aesthetic as they are by Cubist paintings. Exotic, colour-saturated flowers and supercharged Madras visually explode, while lush palms and foliage are observed at night, fostering a certain uneasiness. Pareos cross with scarves, with highly composed patterns that carefully position mysterious creatures and vegetation. Zebras, giraffes and parrots crop up in humorous illustrations, or their feathers and skins are freely reinterpreted. Tribal embroidery and lace are worked in graphic flat planes, in abstract triangles and diamonds.
Everything but classic or tame, stripes, whether club or deckchair-inspired, invigorate everyday silkies and cottons with cheerful harmonies and wide repeats. They update lace and add to pleats to create moving geometries. Cutting across prints and silkies, spring summer 20 stripes disrupt pre-printed grounds, motifs are hatched or barred and flowers play hide-and-seek on opaque/transparent weaves.
Iridescent, sprinkled, crystallised… lace, embroidery and silkies display all their richness in monochrome shines and filtered metallics. Patterns fade into the light of yarns, lace sparkles like Champagne or disappears under beads and sequins, embroideries and guipure are adorned in a froth of mother-of-pearl, and raw meets precious.
A journey into hesitancy and motion lends jacquards, organzas and opulent silks a quite poetic simplicity. Evening fabrics greedily cultivate an ambiguity between plain and decorative. The eye loses itself in dilutions with no discernible contours, in delicate colours that change imperceptibly, in long graduated tones over a fabric’s full height or width, and in watercolour-spray prints. For everyday wear, tie-dyes are paler, more diluted, and splotches diffuse into transparency.