Olivier Gabet* “It’s not about being in the zeitgeist, it’s about exactly pinpointing our times.”
*Director of the musées des Arts Décoratifs (France) and President of the 2016 PV Awards jury.
“At the PV Awards I Discovered that the weavers and tanners were charting a new course, with futuristic transformations on historical or traditional bases.” Giampietro Baudo, editor in chief, MF Fashion, 2016 jury member
“Of all the presented fabrics, I was attracted to soft handles teamed with geometric visuals, for strange things that gave me ideas for clothinf=g with a triumphant feminity.” Maria Luisa Requena, senior fashion consultant, El Corte Inglés, 2016 jury member
Grand Jury Prize fabric – Ventures (IN), Fabrics
Imagination Prize fabric – Henri Portier/Bennett Silks (GB), Fabrics
Handle Prize fabric – Luxury Jersey (IT), Fabrics
Grand Jury Prize leather- Dileather (IT), Leather
Imagination Prize leather- Anil Tannery (TR), Leather
Handle Prize leather- Sakamoto Corp (JP), Leather
What were the working goals fixed by the 2016 jury you chaired?
Handing out prizes is a way of saying something about today’s world. Rather than just being in step with the times, we wanted to represent the moment itself, to exactly pinpoint our times: 2016, 2017, 2018…
Were the jury’s decisions the jury’s decisions obvious and consensual?
The 2016 jury members reflect an interesting diversity: individuals from the press, the industry, but also enlightened amateurs like myself. We truly made our decisions, if not always consensually, definitely out of a strong desire to choose the best, because we wanted our decisions to reflect strong ideas.
What are the strengths of the jury grand prizes this edition ?
The Grand Jury Prize for fabrics is a kind of netting by Ventures, with plays on beautiful beads, embroidered to each other, while each remains independent and moves at its own rhythm. It’s magic, and totally subtle. I still don’t know how it works. You can imagine it in a range of colours, in various combinations, and maybe even figurative motifs. The Grand Jury Prize for leather went to Dileather, for a very powerful leather, marked by stripes, irregular pleatings and magnificent cracklings in a very deep emerald green. It looks like it’s lived a lot, already been a sophisticated coat, for example, yet with something quite graphic and very plastic about it.
What were some other jury favourites ?
The Handle Prizes share an intense night blue colour. Japanese Tanner Sakamoto Corp. used an indigo for a shimmering, very elegant piece, with great depth and beautiful texture. In fabrics, the Handle Prize winner is a very dense knit crepe from Luxury Jersey. It isn’t a really obvious fabric – it’s soft and harsh at the same time, a little stretch, both fluid and heavy. The fabric Imagination Prize was given to an incredible Henri Portier silk, extremely visual, very «modern French school». It’s a satin printed on the back, where the print hardens the textile in places, creating an articulated fabric. For the leather Imagination Prize, we chose an ultra-smooth, ultra-oiled skin, reduced to its strictest truth. Anil Tannery made it as a kind of parchment for today: both transparent and supple, ancient and very modern.