Playing hide and seek, intermittently revealing themselves, autumn winter 20-21 flowers invade surfaces, burst across fabrics, and disguise themselves in the recesses of accessories. They blossom and expand like an ephemeral illusion, a flash of magic, before diving back into the shadows that engulf them, veil them and swallow them up.
Barely identifiable, enigmatic, graphic, they gravitate far from the familiar, obscured and altered by the materials themselves. There are no familiar flowers here, but rather exotic blooms, or large wildflowers that take on a new appearance through curious colourways, inverting light and dark, or imbued with a nocturnal undergrowth atmosphere.
Mysterious and sensual, lit from within, they stand out against darkened grounds for a fleeting dazzling effect, like fireworks. Digital prints enhance their naturalistic elegance with refined precision, jacquard weaves lend them the reflections of its silky yarns to evoke moonlight, while embroidery enhances the contrast of opaque, substantial flowers, sometimes sequined, on transparent bases as light as delicate shadows.
Textile designers suggest similar plays on materials, mixing gouache and metal accents. They juggle with visual effects by composing spontaneous lines, explosive splotches, flat tints with chiselled shapes entangled in floral camouflages. Blacks harboured in the grounds can become glazed, the acid tones of the motifs can be worked in silk or viscose to further enhance a luminous potential…
In accessories, flowers sometimes break away from strictly two-dimensional motifs and move into the volume of a pistil- or plume-like pompom, sometimes two-toned, for colourways that shift along with the movement.
You can find this cross-sector product highlight at Première Vision Paris from 17 to 19 September 2019, in the Fabrics, Accessories and Designs selections.