Technical but trendy, traditional yet unquestionably contemporary. Combining manual know-how with a keen attention to fashion trends, Première Vision Designs’ knit studios offer a range of textile and design solutions adapted to all markets, from haute couture to sportswear, to casual-chic looks for the city. A look here at five international studios.
Sophie Steller :
Having spent some thirty years collaborating with leading brands, Sophie Steller offers fashion-trend expertise, custom design developments and knit sample collections (3-12 gauges), embroidery and crochet characterized by a particularly creative use of colour. From voluminous but lightweight jacquards to subtly retro sporty looks, the coming knit season will be marked by contrast, richness and technical and visual complexity.
The same is true for Sue Bradley, who over the course of her 30 years of experience in the knitwear universe has published several books and organised archives of knit, embroidered and printed motifs combining vintage throwbacks and technological advances, traditional know-how and exotic details. According to this English designer, the next winter season will feature patchwork sweaters in lambswool and silk along with floral and animal motifs, as well as traditional tartans and tweeds enhanced by an innovative use of embroidery, engineered lace and bonding techniques.
At Yellow Minnow, trends set the studio’s agenda: the complete range of hand and machine knits, crochet, jerseys and finishings created by this English studio comes from a philosophy based on perfect customisation for both haute couture and ready-to-wear projects. The next collection from this studio, founded by Ann Wilson and Maggie Smith, plays on dichotomy and texture, freely alternating textured and bouclé yarns with mercerized and shiny renderings.
At Bobble Design, a penchant for trends is coupled with an international approach based on the personal experiences of the studio’s two founders, Jennie Cox and Helen Jenkins, in, respectively, New York and Hong Kong. From their Brighton atelier, these two wonderfully humorous English designers put their passion for knitting and design at the service of the womenswear, menswear and childrenswear markets, as well as technical sportswear, interior design and accessories.
Paying attention to the market’s changing needs is also a central focus at Zinc Design, where an offer of knits in yarns of varied finenesses (3-10) is coupled with constant research into textile design and prints. For next season, the creative team at this London studio focuses on forging a new alliance between modernity and tradition, playing both on the sizes and colours of Arts & Crafts geometric motifs, and the texture and feel of patterns inspired by a natural and tribal universe. Five different ways to unravel the many skeins of knit design.
Meet them next September, Hall 5.