Agility brings its rewards
Surprising is the best way to describe this edition of the show. We saw clear favourites emerge, as well as the essential products for this season but at the same time there were areas of complete uncertainty. “Customers are keeping their options open when choosing samples,” was the comment that could be heard here and there from exhibitors. “They don’t want to decide right now, they’ll wait till the last minute.” To satisfy their clients, exhibitors demonstrated great creativity, not only in their products but also in their manufacturing processes, to gain in rapidity and competitiveness: bespoke embroidery from Kokolo, fast-turnaround trimmings from Effet Passementeries…
In this fast-changing world, agility is a major asset. Companies in the fashion industry have plenty of experience in this area and it deserves to be commended.
The season’s essential items:
Geometrics: Articulated triangles, marquetry, tiling designs, weaving, checkerboards, moucharaby
Fringes: In all materials and all styles, leather, viscose, Alcantara, tweed…
Gilded finishes: From labels to piping, from leather to plastic, the gilded finish, more modern than bling-bling, is present everywhere, across all sectors.
Flashes of colour: Translucent and colourful teeth in a dark zip, a colour that shines from a crack, a lick of bright lacquer against a neutral background … a great way of brightening up accessories.
Added comfort: Softness, elasticity, lightness: this was the winning trio that appeared in every accessory sector.
Buttons and press fasteners
This season colour is everywhere, particularly on natural materials. Dyes enhance mother-of-pearl, horn, wood and metal. We also like the little irregularities in buttons that are not quite flat and not quite circular, not forgetting the crackled effects.
BEST SELLER: Buttons made from lacquered bottle tops by Jim Knopf.
For the masculine market, the classics became more sophisticated: very shiny four-hole buttons came in polished horn or galalith, or were lacquered. We also found discreet fashion touches, such as contrasting mounts or imitation draperies.
Press fasteners have recovered and are present in large sew-on versions, for hidden fastenings.
OUR FAVOURITE: Press fasteners covered in leather on the female part as well, from By Michelangelo.
NEW: The ultra resistant “b-lock” press fastener with traction, new from Cobrax.
In Jeanswear colour is back, even including neon shades for their technical connotation, but sober finishes are still the watchword: The various style features are not accumulated; care is taken not to go over the top.
Plastic zips are gaining in elegance. The new imitation metal finishes look exactly like the real thing, making the product lighter without sacrificing style.
NEW: Metaluxe zips in plastic with a metallic appearance from YKK Group.
For spiral zips the stitching thread is of interest, as it can add real extra value and become a means of customisation. For clothing, the comfort of nylon zips is appreciable – they have no sharp corners, are light and ultra-flexible and can be folded in all directions. In metal zips, wide fine teeth are the epitome of elegance.
Metal is an object of desire: we want to use it everywhere. Whether shiny, brushed or coloured, there is something for everyone, with the difference coming primarily from the dimensions. Huge but lightweight hollow chains captured attention, as did “nautical” style eyelets. In contrast, tiny studs and links inspired all-over decorations or unusual placements.
NEW: Chains with a coloured central groove, from C.D.C.
Clip fasteners or twisting clasps have a bold presence and are destined for solid bags and rigid clutches. We also noted the many versions of the satchel clasp. Eyelets made an impression: they are mostly large, circular and flat, sometimes experimenting with different colours and textures. Studs are back with a vengeance, silver-plated, pointed but not too big. Lastly, decorations: Toe caps, decorations for high heels, plates for threading laces, bits, elongated beads, etc., were copiously present across all styles (baroque, biker, Metropolis…).
Trimmings, braid and weaves
It is a good season for trimmings, which rival each other for inventiveness. Exhibitors are combining materials with great success: Silicon, knop yarns, paper, leather, and chain metal interweave with viscose or Alcantara. Laces are now an accessory to be seen. The mood is for subtlety: we linger over quality toe caps that can be customised, or non-slip solutions.
OUR FAVOURITE: The delicate pairings of colours between the laces and the toe cap from the Société Choletaise de Fabrication.
NEW: Non-slip laces from Shimada Shoji.
Ribbons, straps and dressmaking accessories
Ribbons, grosgrain and waistbands are all going stretchy. For lingerie we choose the technical poetry of lasers, ultrasounds and silicon to modernise delicate decorations.
OUR FAVOURITE: The printed organza ribbon with a non-slip silicon finish from Satab.
The backpack is fashionable in the city so it is a good season for fashion straps. The spacer and the mesh come in embroidered panels from AT+T or in piping with a hint of colour. In addition we note that velvet is back, but it is a discreet return, not a tidal wave.
Lace and embroidery
There will still be a lot of guipure next season. The new trend is for Broderie Anglaise, which is popular in versions with only minimal cut-outs.
BEST SELLER: The embroidered tulle with a tweed aspect from Broderies Langlet.
NEW: Kokolo has developed a technique for printing on embroidery which allows very elaborate and rich designs to be produced with great flexibility and reactivity.
Beads, diamanté, gems, jewellery accessories
No single trend dominates here, all styles are represented. Clients particularly liked build-your-own pyramids in strata and the very small hot fixes with which they could produce their own designs. The tarnished, rubbery or flocked finishes were popular for their unexpected mattness. The same applied for the dark autumnal tones and the muted classics, with a special mention for the iridescent scarab finish that was to be found on all media.
OUR FAVOURITE: The black flocked beads from Ramponi ©.
BEST SELLER: The soft stones from Bartel Beads Neuman with their rounded corners and milky colours.
NEW: Irregular crystals from Swarovski with alternating shiny and matt areas.
Belts and leather accessories
Belts have widened to 6cm and more. They embrace cut-outs (laser perforations, eyelets, weaving) and prefer the palette of natural leathers. Between the nod to westerns in jeanswear and the retro design for suits, opposites come together in a vintage vibe. Note that ponyskin is inspiring manufacturers: We find woven buttons, covered buckles, laser-cutout panels with yellowing edges.
BEST SELLER: Bag handles from Corium.
Feather and fur
The trend is neither for carnival styles nor ostentatious luxury; instead feather and fur preserve elements of their natural appearance. The colour palette is careful not to betray the original shade, and any decorations, diamanté, sequins and other embellishments are added with a parsimonious hand.
OUR FAVOURITE: Ostrich feather pompoms from Marcy, astonishing little balls that crackle under the fingers, lighter than air.
Labels and packaging
A sign of distinction, labels are refined in the smallest details but without unnecessary additions. If we go for relief, it will be monochrome. If we choose a gilded finish, it will be a subtle satin version. Jacquard becomes ultra-fine to produce high definition lettering. Rubbery, downy, glazed textures are pleasant to touch.
NEW: The felting procedure from Seab: A clever way of adding a label using tufting.
© CAROLE DESHEULLES / PREMIERE VISION