At first glance, an air of authenticity infuses suitings and woollens in the women’s universe for autumn winter 1819. Yet buyers’ choices aren’t so simple. There’s another way to read this!
Coat and jacket archetypes are liked when they’re given a different look through unusual weights, handles, dimensions or pattern colourways.
Buyers love ambivalence, hybrids, and dual personalities.
In suitings and woollens they want a concentrate of substance and flexibility: stretch double faces, slimmed-down felt and reefer broadcloths, dense and springy suitings top requests.
In silkies, technology is cited as a key concept in this sector. This is reflected in the remarkable scores of assemblies or performant silks. Elegant and water-repellent trench coats will predominate in wardrobes.
In suitings as in woollens, requests are concentrated on classic patterns with a hint of the offbeat: houndstooths transposed in jacquards, Prince of Wales altered by brushings. With the many samplings of smoothed Donegals, crushed bouclette, semi-optical/semi-blurred graphic tweeds, the feminine universe goes for a faux rustic look with surprisingly sophisticated handles.
Checks, checks and more checks!
A woman’s coat in a large checked woollen, silk or knit, is promised by the fancy selections for outer layers. Maximized tartans in softened carded wools, an illusion of plaids in silkies and coat weight knits, most often requested in soft or round versions.