The Best survey of S/S 2020

The Best survey, which canvassed 335 Fabrics and Designs exhibitors at the Première Vision Paris show in February 2019,  indicates the major colour, fabrics and designs trends for spring summer 2020. Fabric and designs selections made by international fashion brands during the show are decoded and analysed to identify the certitudes and gut feelings of designers and buyers.


Colour, colour everywhere! The results are completely unequivocal. Pronounced, strong colour drives fantasy. There’s a collective thirst for optimistic, upbeat and joyful fashion. And yet there’s nothing entirely insouciant in this cheerful atmosphere. Sustainable development is taking root in all markets. It’s now impossible to ignore the consequences of one’s choices , and buyers are extremely attentive to all virtuous initiatives.

The results reflect double-digit growth in all the eco-related developments over the past five years. Beyond a respect for the environment, a longing for authenticity is on the rise in our surveys, expressing a powerful need for truthful, honest products, for meaningful fashion consumption.

Elegance remains widely espoused, but it is increasingly disconnected from a sense of nobility or luxury. Instead, elegance today is high-performing, relaxed, in linen-y or fantasy interpretations, always with a contemporary stamp, and eschews any references to classics.
The infatuation with streetwear may be on the wane. In the results, the casual influence is lessening in the men’s and women’s markets, which are clearly shifting towards greater sophistication. The fabrics selected show first and foremost a quest for lightness and suppleness, even fluidity, and make no comprises when it comes to comfort.

The exuberant vegetal or floral decoration and graphically worked fantasies are again a priority for smaller items, tops and shirts. Outerwear regains its calm with subtle weave plays, or discreet patterns and shine.



A commitment to colour and fantasy

Selections by women’s clothing buyers and designers convey strong choices, a true commitment to colour and fantasy. The feminine silhouette is going to be above all light, sometimes even semi-transparent in tops, but comfort is a must, thanks to supple and fluid behaviours and finely calibrated elasticity. Choices veer towards the freshness of artificial blends, controlled or shivering textures, discreet shine, and naturals with a touch of linen. The desire for personalisation remains strong, with selections featuring high-impact, colourful decorations and diversified finishes. A truly notable point is the rise of sustainable development in all activity sectors. Silkies, lace, embroidery and prints are now required to be more eco-compatible.

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The return of affirmed elegance

Premiere Vision 12 février 2019 ©AlexGallosi-4375
Men’s buyers are excited again by elegance – as long as it’s comfortable and high-performant for everyday, just right for new uses in the city. Suppleness and lightness are driving buyers’ choices. Nothing too rigid, too compact or too crispy is found in the selections.
Wools and linens dominate the selections, in stretch-blend versions. Sustainable development is a factor in their decisions, and menswear players are particularly sensitive to authenticity and traceable materials. The coming shirts look to be supple and comfortable, subtly shivering, but above all punchy! The top colour choices are clear and unequivocal.

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Shiny elegance or relaxed mattness, a priority on eco-developments

Premiere Vision 12 février 2019 ©AlexGallosi-4489
While the Sport and Tech world remains closely linked with technology – an absolute priority in the choices – and sustainable development, which has been present in the sport universe for a long time, it’s that word “casual” that caught the attention in the Best survey. This may reflect this sector’s desire to orient sport towards more everyday practices, or wellness activities. This desire for relaxation can also be seen in the fabric choices, whose handles and behaviours need to be as natural as possible. Nonetheless, elegance remains a value here too, spotted thanks to the rise of shine and discreet fantasy worked in tone-on-tone or matt/shiny effects.

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A reaffirmed sportswear identity

We see casualwear refocusing on its own DNA, with relaxed, comfortable and natural being the most oft-cited qualities. Sustainable development is also at its highest level here, essential in denim and well entrenched in casual products. Buyers say they’re looking for simplicity and authenticity and moving away from products that are too complex or too fanciful – except in denim. Smooth surfaces found favour over overly marked structures, but wrinkled, poorly ironed effects, slubs in linen and deliberate blurrings provide the necessary added value. Here, unlike other universes, compactness and density remain in high demand, with a drier feel, and almost papery handles.

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