Elegance, a major value in the world of men’s tailoring, is caught up this season in the search for fantasy!
Chic menswear is more varied in its visual expressions, but very coherent when it comes to handle and drape.
Crispness, density and freshness are on deck for next summer, a noteworthy shift as suitings were growing more fluid in recent seasons.
The rise in compacts doesn’t go hand in hand with rigour: buyers prefer aspects that celebrate the subtlety of fused effects in suitings, washed finishings and the joyful vitality of stripes in shirtings.
Citywear players freshen up menswear silhouettes with refined, more casual shirtings.
Washed finishes and non-ironed aspects are almost systematically requested, to modernize the noblest cottons.
Precise figurings and elaborate dobbies play on nonchalance.
Checks reigned for almost 10 years; now once again stripes are taking over.
Without the slightest hesitancy, choices in colour wovens went for designs with a graphic frankness.
In the fore are stripes animated by plays on weaves, irregular rhythms and stick stripes in vivid colourways.
In contrast to suiting fabric choices with more of a substantial feel, shirtings are sought after in a more fluid and lighter vein. Cottons and cotton linens are finer, verging on transparency. Viscose blends and even a touch of silk slip into the selections.
JACKETS AND SUITS
While calls for fantasy are increasing considerably in men’s suitings, they’re expressed in a refined and low-key register.
Fused checks, hazy semi-plains and Prince of Wales, skilfully blurred yarn-dyeds are unanimous choices.
Both lighter and more compact, the favourite fabrics in tailoring combine fineness and a feeling of substance. After many seasons of topping requests, fluidity recedes in suiting selections,. The men’s silhouette looks to be more precise, more sharply cut.
A sign of change in the tailored universe: linen blends are rising to the top of the season’s favourite compositions. The end of the supremacy of cotton confirms that bridges between tailoring and casualwear are growing more rare.
When buyers show interest in plains and suitings with low-key visuals, it’s because they are interested in a fabric’s inner qualities. Water-repellent and anti-stain treatments are on the rise, and stretch wools outpace 100% wools.