The casualwear universe is back on track as it distances itself from a tailoring influence.
For many seasons, collections have cultivated an ambiguousness between elegance and relaxed looks.
For spring summer 19, casualwear shows off its true DNA: fabric choices for relaxed jackets and pants bring typically sportswear textile codes subtly back into play.
Buyers want more than just relaxed basics, they are focused on details that make a difference. Smooth aspects are foregone in favour of livelier fabrics: more sophisticated irregularities, finer finishings, livelier fabrics and fresher authentics.
TOPS & SHIRTS
Naturalness and lightness steer choices for relaxed tops.
Fine irregularities and visual imperfections rise to the rank of fantasy.
Shirtings and cottony jerseys favour slightly raw aspects and deliberately caressing handles.
Buyers want more precious tee-shirts and sweatshirts. Knits strike a strongly casual note with comfortable and benevolent fibres, but they truly stand out for their seductive reflections: waxed, varnished surfaces, plastic gleam or metallic shimmers.
Linen aspects are very popular as a way to enrich colour-wovens. Stripes and checks are preferred in linen-cotton versions. Rigorously neat patterns are out of place here. Casual shirts are preferred lively and bucolic, reflecting a desire to refresh authentics.
JACKETS AND PANTS
The urge for a natural look and feel is confirmed by growing research into raw aspects and dry handles. An authentic look in visuals is expected, but actual rusticity is sidelined. Pure cottons, previously alone in first place, now share their top-perch with linen blends.
Fantasy is part of the jeanswear identity and this season it explores washed-out irregularities to borrow the decorative look. A richness in nuances, partially-erased designs, blurry effects and dyeing irregularities become a source of personalization.
Visual and tactile softness step to the front of the sportswear scene. Lightening finishes and enzymatic washes regain their leading scores in the survey’s tally. Relaxed denims and cottons are once again preferred faded.
Since last summer buyers have been seeking more fluid qualities in casual pants. The importance of cottony blends based on Tencel or viscose is confirmed. This underlying current is evolving this season with an upsurge in denser qualities, at once supple and firm.
Stripes reached a score that hasn’t been attained in casualwear in over 15 years. Echoing the search for authenticity, the most frequently selected designs reference familiar visuals: towelling or deckchair stripes, usually offset by weaving irregularities.